If you enjoy the thrill of mala, the renowned combination of red chilli and Sichuan peppercorns, get around a bowl of Dumpling Max’s “numbing savoury” chaoshou. Fifteen plump, pork-stuffed wontons float in a fragrant, sinus-clearing broth that sports a layer of red oil.

On the milder, northern Chinese part of the menu there are jiaozi (the thick-skinned boiled dumplings) filled with juicy prawn chunks, soft scrambled egg and garlic chives. Grab some braised five-spice duck necks to gnaw on while you wait for hot dishes, or join the steady takeaway trade flowing through this bright, simple shopfront and take some home to pair with a beer.

The jerky-like snack is arguably best as drinking food, but there’s no booze here – just soft drinks, soy milk, and a refreshing house-made sour plum juice.