Eric Wong, former BBQ King head chef, is now the crackerjack king, running a bowls club Chinese where schnitzel and rump steak sit alongside an expansive range of Cantonese dishes, mostly under $15. Grab your chopsticks and tuck into house specialities such as barbecue duck and honey barbecue pork. San choi bao is a little tame, but unfailingly generous. A richly restorative braised brisket and noodle soup; and lightly battered pork spare ribs in plum sauce both nudge the jack. Wine options are limited, but schooners for under $4 fix that.