La Nina, be damned. Summer in Sydney demands drinks by the beach or harbour, no matter what the weather wants to throw at us. Here are 10 of the Good Food Guide review team's favourite joints for cocktails and snacks around town – each one so close to water, you could almost cast a rod.

Bathers' Pavilion, Balmoral

Is there anything brighter than a Balmoral smile? From the cosmetically enhanced choppers on the beachside dog walkers, to the beam on that lucky soul who finds a fee-free car park. Bathers' is so dedicated to the pursuit of happiness that restaurant manager Jessica Mead has the words "a smile a day" tattooed on her finger. Indeed, the water views and blue-and-white striped banquettes should have everyone grinning in the fine diner here, however there's also Betel Leaf upstairs for champagne and modern Thai, while the bistro offers a bar menu with fried padron peppers and prosciutto on toast. Happy days. batherspavilion.com.au

The Boathouse, Rose Bay

Sydneysiders are spoilt for prime fish-and-chip spots, but the latest outpost of the Boathouse, where sunbeams bounce off glittering superyachts and seagulls squawk as paddleboarders drift by, could be one of the best. The light-bathed dining room and bar is heavy on maritime decor – all radiant blues, white timber, crab pots and conch shells – while attentive service and cocktails have a soothing effect. theboathouserosebay.com.au

The Collaroy, Collaroy

Justin Hemmes' Merivale group has been at the helm of this surfside pub for the past few years and the food only gets better every time we visit. Chef Jordan Toft has designed a menu with options from oysters sharpened with pineapple and pepper mignonette, to rock lobster pasta and gnarly, grilled rib-eyes to pair with Chateauneuf-du-Pape. Or you could just wander in for a few beers and a burger and still leave satisfied and refreshed. merivale.com​

Curly Lewis, Bondi

If you haven't shuffled off the beach to neck a cold one while your cossies are still wet, can you really say you've experienced summer in Sydney? Curly Lewis opened its schmick tap room in August, 100 metres from the break the brewery founders surfed as grommets. There are 20 beer taps at a long timber bar (try the crisp "Salty Mermaid" gose), Mediterranean-inspired large plates and diner-style snacks (don't miss the meatballs with Calabrian chilli), and a few skin-contact wines to round out the drinks list. curlylewis.com.au

Dining by James Viles, Circular Quay

The adage "the closer to the water, the worse the food" is more or less nonsense in Sydney, although Circular Quay should still be approached with caution. Tourist traps, ahoy! At least the Park Hyatt is a reliable choice for cocktails and Opera House views now that chef James Viles is a the helm of its kitchens. If you're not in the market for a full dinner showcasing coastal and regional foods, there's a bar menu featuring salmon caviar with soured cream and potato focaccia to ride alongside a eucalyptus gimlet. diningroom.com.au

Icebergs Dining Room and Bar, Bondi

Icebergs is back, baby. After six months of renovations, Maurice Terzini has reopened the iconic clifftop location with views to Bondi Beach and the ocean beyond. It's lighter, brighter and breezier than ever before, featuring tables topped with teal-glazed terracotta tiles to reflect the sea and sky, and high-tech lighting from Milan. After years of trying to get a development application approved, the terrace is now enclosed for rain-hail-or-shine service, too. Perfect for a sbagliato and spaghetti in any weather. idrb.com

Lola's Level 1, Bondi

Lasagne and the beach go together like red wine and fish, so pasta al forno layered with slow-braised beef shanks might not be your go-to at this nuovo-tratt on Bondi's main drag. Lola's signature lasagnette is a must though, full of mighty flavours and silky bechamel. It's also small enough to let you go big on butterflied and butter-glossed king prawns topped with bottarga – appropriate snacking on a balcony with sea salt in the air. Attractive, chirpy staff know their champagne from chenin, too. lolaslevel1.com.au

The Pines, Cronulla

Beach vistas and sunshine pour good vibes over the white-on-blond dining room at this lovely coastal spot, and chef James Metcalfe adds a bit of luxury to the laidback surroundings. There's beluga caviar to start, lobster tails topping a wagyu burger, and oysters making a rock-star entrance on clouds of dry ice. Meanwhile, excellent cocktails ensure spirits are high. thepinescronulla.com.au

Una Mas, Coogee

Una Mas is Spanish for "one more", and when the windows are thrown open to the sun and the sparkling sea, one more is definitely on the agenda. One more Estrella beer, perhaps, or plate of fresh mozzarella served Capri-style on lemon leaves. One more conversation over a skewered anchovy gilda, or a paprika-tanned tangle of chitarra pasta in a rich puddle of sobrasada sauce. More relaxed than kick-up-your-heels Mimi's next door, and far from the madding crowds of Coogee Pavilion below, it's the sort of place you just want to hang out in, one more time. merivale.com

Whalebridge, Circular Quay

You may not see a whale, but you will get a great view of lobster thermidor at this open-air, waterside restaurant on the Opera House side of Circular Quay. There are obvious drawbacks to a restaurant not having a roof, or even walls, but there is also something magical about it, albeit with umbrellas in summer and heaters in winter. Fraser Short's Sydney Collective opened Whalebridge on the site of the old Sydney Cove Oyster Bar in 2022, installing chef Will Elliott and a luxe seafood menu with French bistro accents and nostalgia on the side. Roll up for flash-fried squid and a spritz, or lock in for the share platter of fruits de mer. whalebridge.com.au

And three of the best beyond city limits …

Quarterdeck, Narooma

Staff are in jeans, tees and loose linen, their stylish, beachy look matching the easy-going family-friendly atmosphere at Merivale's tiki-flavoured bar and restaurant overlooking Wagonga Inlet. The menu leans on bold Mexican-inspired cooking, local seafood and tacos, plus bar staples such as a towering double cheeseburger and smoky chicken wings with chipotle dipping sauce. Add a cocktail or two – perhaps a Zombie with three types of rum, brandy, passionfruit and pineapple – and the world is your freshly shucked oyster. merivale.com

Raes Cellar Bar, Byron Bay

This relaxed yet elegant boutique hotel has the feel of a sun-kissed Greek villa with a dash of Casablanca. Whitewashed walls, creeping ivy and historic black-and-white surf photos all add to the vibe, while cheerful staff talk guests through the dishes of Jason Saxby, Raes' chef with a passion for native ingredients and ethically-sourced seafood. There's a full-menu restaurant, but there's also the Cellar Bar, operating on a first-come-first-serve basis for sustainability-focused wines and a leafy view to Wategos Beach. Expect snacks such as Moreton Bay bug rolls and local cured meats. raes.com.au

Shelter, Lennox Head

Airy and spacious, Shelter is as fresh as the gentle breeze rolling in from the ocean waves out front. This is dining with a serious side of beach-house chic – clock the white walls, wide open windows and rattan-backed chairs – where ease and enjoyment come first. Fish specials draw on the day's catch, wine is appropriately light and lo-fi, and the bug sando – the sweet flesh almost pearlescent – is a thing of absolute beauty. All this, plus breakfast and a room upstairs? We'll drink a kumquat spritz to that. shelterlennox.com.au

The Sydney Morning Herald Good Food Guide 2023 magazine is available for $9.95 from newsagents, supermarkets and at thestore.com.au

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