According to the International Wines and Spirits Record, Australian consumption of non-alcoholic wine is set to increase by 18 per cent annually until 2023.

Blue Nun White, 750ml, $12

Score: 0/5

Blue Nun is back. Made with German grapes (the label only specifies "white"), there is nothing to recommend this teetotal version of Australia's lost party favourite. There is some acid here, and both bottles tasted had a sulphurous rotten-egg aroma.

McGuigan Zero Rosé, 750ml, $12.90

Score 2.5/5

Sweet and inoffensive straight from the fridge, this could almost pass for grapefruit juice mixed with kombucha. Surprisingly drinkable with a big West Coast Cooler vibe, you could also use it in a punch bolstered by a tin of Goulburn Valley fruit salad.

Natureo Grenache Shiraz, 750ml, $15

Score: 3/5

It lacks anything close to complexity, but Natureo makes some of the better de-alcoholised wines. Aged in French oak, the Spanish brand's red has hints of vanilla and cherry on the palate, leading to an astringent finish. Serve chilled with barbecued lamb.

Drinks were scored for taste, aroma and body in their own right, rather than in comparison to the hard stuff.