It's the perfect neighbourhood restaurant- cosy and simple, with warm staff. Breakfasts are western standards with Thai twists, like fried eggs with nuts and shallots. Lunch brings burgers and wraps alongside curries and a Thai beef salad. Then, when the sun goes down, the tea-lights in miniature birdcages come out and the menu goes all-out Thai (the chef is ex-Tom Phat). 'Ocean bags' are crisp, herby seafood parcels, and sesame tofu is sticky sweet. In the graprow stir-fry, the beef is tender and there's just enough heat, while the pad thai is mellow, with chilli on the side.