Friendly and cosy, with cream walls, red carpets and old sideboards laden with books and bottles, Poplars has a French heart.  A meal might begin with cured ocean trout and a sharp apple vinaigrette, or terrine with pear chutney, and continue with classic dry-aged fillet steak with fries, salad and a spicy cafe de Paris butter. The affordable wine list is proudly parochial.