Hands-on owners Helen and Tony Ashton add small-town charm to their big pub. Its in the fitout (a bowl of apples on the bar; wee windmills on each table) and the friendly service. Contemporary, well-crafted fare may include house-made flatbread topped with slow-braised lamb and tabbouleh, and a roast of the day, perhaps confit pork loin with apple sauce and a mountain of veg.