A block back from the beach, glass-fronted Cafeteria’s a sunny cafe whatever the weather. The light, bright space is jumping, with people vying for tables, waiters juggling coffees, and perfectly poached eggs teetering on slabs of sourdough whizzed to tables. Carefully plated comfort food might include airy, hand-rolled gnocchi that’s smoky with chicken and brightened by basil and peas; steaming bowls of chilli mussels arrive heady with garlic and wine; and a lunch special chicken kiev may prove to be a bronzed beauty with a subtle garlic-butter heart and a cheerful carrot coleslaw to boot.