Its location, beside a carpark, might not be the most salubrious but the filigreed, ornamental pushbike tethered to the pole in front of Bistro Maison signals you're leaving the ordinary world and entering a gentler one. Inside the handsome two-storey building, decorated with etched mirrors and crisp linen, you'll find a menu of French favourites, courtesy of chef Bernard McCarthy. Free-range chicken terrine is studded with a sweet hit of fig offset by house-made cornichons, and potato and leek veloute is frothy and topped with herbs. Beef bourguignon, its rich, intense sauce carefully seasoned, arrives with whole mushrooms, bisected kipflers and a thick strip of bacon, the beef falling away under the mere shadow of impending cutlery. Desserts naturally include a pot of creme brulee behind a curved privacy wall of tuile, and the chocolate mousse comes with honeycomb, a deliciously awkward boulder to navigate.