WHERE AND WHAT

The term ''institution'' deserves to be mothballed but we'll bring it out of retirement for the A1 Lebanese Bakery, a feel-good success story established in 1992 by two brothers-in-law and their wives. They have since expanded and the two other suburban outlets are franchises but the Sydney Road mothership is still owned by one of the original couples. It's cheap (you can feed four people for about $15), it's cheerful and it's decorated with all sorts of interesting ephemera. Their pastries are, frankly, delicious and while you're there you can stock up on Middle Eastern groceries and perhaps a new hookah.

WHERE TO SIT

The cafe seating is at the front of the large quadruple-front shop - tables are laminate and seats are vinyl. There is a whole lot going on so it's a great spot for people-watching.

WHEN TO GO

A1 is open daily from 7am. From Sunday to Wednesday they close at 7pm; Thursday to Saturday it's 9pm.

DRINK

There's no alcohol but there's strong Versano coffee and an impressively global collection of soft drinks.

EAT

The oven down the back of the room is one of the hardest working in the business. Patrons line up to order and service is quick as a flash. Lebanese pizza uses pide dough and olive oil rather than the Italians' dough and tomato paste, so the result is lighter, simpler and far more portable - you can roll these babies up after a squeeze of lemon and have the perfect food to go. Minced lamb with a big whack of chilli is a classic case of the simple things being the best. And it's a snip at $3.50. The A1 special is spread with za'atar (a spice mix primarily made up with thyme, oregano, sesame seeds and sumac) then topped with capsicum, salami, tomato, spinach, olives, fetta and haloumi. A couple of dollars will buy a spinach-and-cheese triangle, or little pizzas with haloumi and sujuk (sausage). Sweets include knefe (a Lebanese dessert with filo and cheese with crushed pistachio) or Turkish delight.

WHO'S THERE

To trot out one of the cliches of multiculturalism, A1 is a melting pot. On Chill Out's most recent visit, the queue for pizzas and pies included a group of Muslim religious students in traditional garb, a couple of habit-wearing nuns, families with young children and uni students chasing their hangovers away with spinach pies.

WHY BOTHER?

It's cheap, it's tasty and it's so dependable it deserves the institution tag.

A1 Lebanese Bakery

643-645 Sydney Road, Brunswick, phone 9386 0440.