Choosing the right ham has never been more difficult. From the triple-smoked to the easy carve, each of the major supermarkets has increased their range this Christmas (17 at Woolies, 10 at Coles).

That’s where the Good Food team comes in. Head of Food Sarah Norris and reporter Bianca Hrovat have joined forces with The Sydney Morning Herald editor Bevan Shields and chef-turned-charcutier Mick Nunn to blind-taste and rate 14 bone-in leg hams.

Nunn smokes, cures and creates sausages from pork (and other proteins) at Salt Kitchen Charcuterie in Ballarat. He explains a good leg ham should feature a balanced cure (neither too salty, nor too sweet); a natural meaty texture (moist, without being wet); a lovely smoky flavour; and a generous (though not overwhelming) marbling of fat.

Each bone-in leg ham below is sold nationally, either at major supermarkets or online, and arrives ready to eat: cured, cooked and (in some cases) smoked. Included is hams from one of Australia’s poshest butchers, Victor Churchill, and Coles’ first Christmas ham using certified carbon-neutral pork.

While some leg hams sell for as little as $7.99 per kilogram (at Aldi, of course), some of the higher-end options can set the Christmas budget back upwards of $200. Quite the investment, particularly during a cost-of-living crunch.

On our mind as we tasted our way through the 14 hams were questions such as does a big price tag equal best flavour? Is there such a thing as too much smokiness? And how best should you eat these hams: covered in a glaze, in a toastie or simply sliced off the bone?

They were sliced and served cold to the judges for tasting, who rated them without knowing their brand or price. The results, taken as an average from the four judges, are presented in ascending order, from lowest to highest ranked.

But consider yourself warned: while some scores were predictable, the judges were surprised to discover which hams made their top three.

The Good Food Christmas ham taste test

14. Woolworths half-leg ham
$8 a kilogram

The Woolies budget ham is inoffensive but unremarkable, with a pale colour, slippery texture and bland flavour reminiscent of pre-packaged deli meat. “Salt is probably the only characteristic we can take from this,” says Nunn. Shields apologises to the ham for disliking it. Woolworths recommends glazing and roasting the ham for Christmas, which may help matters.

13. Vic’s Meat whole baby ham for Christmas
From $225 for a ham weighing between four and five kilograms

Piglets are hand-selected to create this premium ham, which is smoked for 12 hours over beechwood. The slices are wet on the plate, with a sponge-like texture that typically occurs when the brine and the meat coagulate, Nunn says. Not an appetising thought. The flavour is mild, neither smoky nor salty, and features an odd, sweet aftertaste.

12. IGA naturally smoked bone-in leg ham
$8 a kilogram

IGA offers to price match their ham against Coles and Woolworths, ensuring it remains an affordable option this Christmas. “But it has no real taste, does it?” says Shields, who ranks it lowest. It features a “jarring” spongy texture (per Nunn), a mild saltiness, and (as Norris notes) a flavour so bland, it would become overwhelmed by cheese in a toasted sandwich.

11. Costco Central highlands pork double-smoked ham on the bone
$9 a kilogram

To acquire this ham, you must first brave the lengthy checkout queues at Costco. It might be worth it, depending on who you ask. This was the most divisive of the hams: ranked mediocre by some, and unpleasant by others. It’s moist, a little smoky, and features a lingering sweetness. “It has personality,” says Norris. “I just don’t want to hang out with it.”

10. Coles beechwood smoked half-leg ham
$8 a kilogram

“Oh, this has a big flavour!” says Norris. Overwhelmingly, that flavour is salt. It hits hard on the first bite, then mellows into an unusual aftertaste the team couldn’t quite pinpoint. “It has to be something else in the brine,” says Nunn. “[It seems like] they’ve added something to it.” He explains brine often contains aromatics such as clove, coriander seed and mustard seed. The balance did not seem to be there.

9. Coles beechwood double-smoked half-leg ham
$13 a kilogram

If you plan to amp up the flavour of your ham with a strong glaze, this is a solid choice. While its standalone flavour is unremarkable, it features a satisfying, rustic texture appreciated by the entire judging panel. Nunn says this is due to marbling of fat throughout the slice, helping it walk the line between wet and dry.

8. Woolworths Gold free-range triple-smoked half-leg ham
$16 a kilogram

We’re jumping in Guy Fieri’s vintage Chevy and driving to flavour town with this exceptionally dark, smoky leg ham – but its intensity isn’t for everyone. “This is very eastern European, triple-smoking the ham like this, and there’s definitely a place for it in the market,” says Nunn. The meat is on the drier side, with a little noticeable gristle, but it would work particularly well in a loaded sandwich.

7. Aldi Festive Selection Australian half-leg ham
$7.99 a kilogram

This is the cheapest ham on the list, and it’s pretty damn good. Sure, the brine is pretty noticeable, the texture is a little spongy, and the flavour does lean salty. But a gentle smokiness balances things out and wins the judges over. Bonus: there’s a good, even amount of fat on each slice, which means it will become delicious and crispy when grilled on a barbecue (Nunn’s go-to for Boxing Day leftovers).

6. Bertocchi Brothers ham on the bone quarters
$12 a kilogram

It’s unanimous: the Bertocchi Brothers make a pretty slice of ham. It’s an even, pale pink with a deep and balanced flavour; offered as part of the brothers’ gold label, which uses traditional Italian recipes and natural fermentation processes. “It’s quite unique,” says Nunn. Only downside? It’s wet. Wet coming out of the packet, wet coming onto the plate … but that might make it a great candidate for a glaze and roast.

5. Andrew’s Choice traditional ham bone-in
From $115 for a four-kilogram half leg; from $175 for a six-kilogram full leg

While Melburnians can find Andrew’s Choice smallgoods at dozens of stockists, Sydneysiders will have to track down the artisan producer’s smoked pig at Russkis Deli in Bondi. It’s a ham worth the hunt. A great all-rounder with nice marbling and juicy without being wet. Not too salty, not too sweet, just right. “This would also hold up really well in a Boxing Day toastie,” says Norris. The only glitch in the scoring matrix came from a lack of smoke flavour.

4. Victor Churchill Kurobuta Berkshire traditional half-leg ham bone-in
$175 for a ham leg weighing between 3.5 and four kilograms

The ancient breed of black British pigs used to make this Victor Churchill ham is known for its high fat content, creating a marbled meat that stays moist during cooking. Nunn notes it’s “moist, without being washed out”, and features a nice, clean aftertaste. “If you had people over and gave them [this ham] ... you’d be happy with that,” says Shields.

3. Sunshine Meats free-range double-smoked bone-in ham
$25.2 a kilogram for a whole leg, $27.20 a kilogram for a half leg

Free-range pork from country Victoria is infused with maple syrup, marinated in spices, and double-smoked to become our delicious third-place runner-up. And while it stands up on its own, the leftovers would make a mean Boxing Day toastie. “Texturally, it’s one of the best we’ve had,” says Nunn.

2. Coles Finest free-range triple-smoked half-leg ham
$15 a kilogram

“It’s sweet, smoky and salty,” says Norris. In other words – yum. Coles has nailed this one, using free-range WA pork to create an evenly marbled, flavourful ham. Nunn says the triple smoking infused the meat without overpowering it, thanks to a drier outer shell. Bonus points: this is Coles’ first Christmas ham using certified carbon-neutral pork.

1. Woolworths double-smoked half-leg ham
$13.50 a kilogram

With subtle smokiness, deep visible marbling and bang-on texture, this is a ham worthy of prime position at the dinner table. It’s smoked over Australian-sourced mountain ash wood. Norris says: “Moist meat, with lovely marbling throughout, not as smoky as some we have tasted, more like a roast pork.” Carve it up and serve it with roast vegetables – this ham can hold its own without additional cooking. Merry Christmas!