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Richmond's Hanoi Hannah reborn as New Quarter

Roslyn Grundy
Roslyn Grundy

Roasted chicken with green nam jim and annatto oil at New Quarter.
Roasted chicken with green nam jim and annatto oil at New Quarter.Space Between

Almost exactly three years after opening in Richmond as Hanoi Hannah New Quarter, the modern Vietnamese restaurant is reawakening from its COVID coma as simply New Quarter.

"It wasn't fulfilling what we wanted it to be, so we've started again," says Commune Group's Simon Blacher. "COVID and the lockdown brought with it the opportunity for us to revisit our true goals and ambitions for the site."

The Commune Group, whose hospitality roster includes Firebird, Tokyo Tina and Neptune Food & Wine, used the closure to bring back design firm Ewert Leaf and creative agency Space Between to rework the interior.

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The separate takeaway-focused Swan Street entrance has gone and the entire space has been carved into four dining areas with timber and stucco finishes and Richmond streetscape photographs by Josh Robenstone, and seating for 80 at cork-topped tables and bars.

After leaving the Commune Group stable for a stint at Sunda, chef Scott Lord has returned to head the New Quarter kitchen, introducing a shorter, sharper menu.

He's ousted Hanoi Hannah street food signatures such as pho and rice-paper rolls and added Vietnamese-inspired dishes with a modern Melbourne feel.

Chicken toast with Laughing Cow cheese and nuoc cham salmon caviar.
Chicken toast with Laughing Cow cheese and nuoc cham salmon caviar.Space Between

When New Quarter reopens on February 25, look out for chicken toast with Laughing Cow cheese and nuoc cham salmon caviar, clams cooked in parchment with banh canh cua broth and burnt tomato, and roasted chicken with green nam jim and annatto oil.

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And never a team to stand still, the Commune Group has taken over the former Ilona Staller site in Carlisle Street for a yet-to-be decided project. Blacher, who grew up near the former art deco bank in Balaclava, says they'll be taking their time to hone the idea to deliver something that respects the neighbourhood but isn't too "high concept".

Meanwhile at their Japanese street food restaurant Tokyo Tina in Windsor, they'll soon be knocking a hole through to the shop next door to create a private dining room seating 36. It's expected to open in April.

Hanoi Hannah New Quarter soon after opening in 2018.
Hanoi Hannah New Quarter soon after opening in 2018.Supplied

New Quarter will open for lunch and dinner Tuesday to Saturday from February 25.

79 Swan Street, Richmond, newquarter.hanoihannah.com.au.

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Roslyn GrundyRoslyn Grundy is Good Food's deputy editor and the former editor of The Age Good Food Guide.

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Original URL: https://www.smh.com.au/goodfood/eating-out/richmonds-hanoi-hannah-reborn-as-new-quarter-20210205-h1tsbs.html