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Potato wedges make a comeback at Redfern's refreshed Woolpack pub

Bianca Hrovat
Bianca Hrovat

Wedges get a glow-up with garlic labne and fermented chilli.
Wedges get a glow-up with garlic labne and fermented chilli.Jessica Nash

The Woolpack in Redfern gives a nostalgic nod to Aussie pub classics with a refreshed menu that features a return of the crispy potato wedges of the '90s, ripe for dunking in a modernised "sour cream and chilli sauce".

Once the hallmark of a good pub feed, the humble potato wedge has often been overlooked in favour of its flashier cousins. But a good bowl of hot wedges need not come loaded with unnecessary extras.

At The Woolpack, food consultant Toby Wilson and head chef Alberto Facci pair their wedges with a garlicky labna and fermented chilli sauce.

Inside Redfern's refreshed Woolpack pub.
Inside Redfern's refreshed Woolpack pub.Jessica Nash
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"We couldn't not have potato wedges on the menu – and we didn't want to reinvent that classic '90s flavour profile of being served with sour cream and chilli too much, but there was room for them to grow up a bit, too," Wilson said.

"The labne has a great dip-like consistency, and the chillies are fermented for about a week, and both are highly addictive."

Extra cooking time ensures the wedges pack a big crunch, with Wilson noting "there's nothing worse than an anaemic potato wedge that comes out soggy and orange".

Rissole burger with beetroot jam and caramelised onion.
Rissole burger with beetroot jam and caramelised onion.Jessica Nash

The potato snack is a highlight of The Woolpack's new menu, which features an all-star line-up of pub favourites, including a rissole burger with beetroot jam and caramelised onion; a potato scallop butty with curry sauce; and onion rings with malt vinegar and ranch dipping sauce.

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It's part of The Woolpack's refresh under the direction of Aaron Crinis, of The Good Atelier, and hospitality guru Jamie Wirth. Wirth, who founded the Drink'n'Dine Group (the Forresters and the Norfolk) and consulted on the George, the Duke and the Old Fitz, said the team took pains to preserve the pub's "laidback energy".

"We wanted the vibe to feel like a nod to the great Aussie and English pubs of yesteryear," he says. "The pubs that I have always loved most in my travels aren't too fussy but have really welcoming energy and focus on … community. When you get that right, the pub becomes part of the neighbourhood and grows from there."

The pub's interiors have been given a lick of paint and new framed prints, and its dog-friendly outdoor seating area extended.

Open Mon-Sat 10am-midnight Sun 10am-10pm

229 Chalmers Street, Redfern, woolpack.com.au

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Bianca HrovatBianca HrovatBianca is Good Food's Sydney-based reporter.

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Original URL: https://www.smh.com.au/goodfood/eating-out/potato-wedges-make-a-comeback-at-redferns-refreshed-woolpack-pub-20220325-h22nov.html