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Australian food writer and restaurateur Bill Granger has died aged 54

Andrea McGinniss and Ardyn Bernoth

Australian restaurateur and food writer Bill Granger has died aged 54.

The family of the Melbourne-born, UK-based self-taught cook said he passed away on Christmas Day in London. It is believed he died of cancer, after being diagnosed with it many months ago, according to sources close to the family.

Bill Granger outside one of his Sydney restaurants.
Bill Granger outside one of his Sydney restaurants.Supplied

Granger’s family shared the news on Instagram, saying: “It is with great sadness that the family of Bill Granger announce he has passed away on 25th December at the age of 54. A dedicated husband and father, Bill died peacefully in hospital with his wife, Natalie Elliott, and three daughters, Edie, Inès and Bunny, at his bedside in their adopted home of London.”

Tributes have flowed in from chefs including Jamie Oliver, who commented on Instagram: “This is devastating news, I’m so sad to hear this, what a guy he was ... a wonderful human, kind calm soul ... I admired everything he represented in food. I remember the first time I met him many moons ago, he couldn’t have been nicer and his food so good.”

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Cookery writer and TV presenter Nigella Lawson said: “I’m heartbroken to hear this. So cruel.”

Australian chef Darren Robertson, co-owner of Three Blue Ducks cafes, acknowledged Granger’s contribution to Australia’s breakfast culture, writing: “So very sad to hear this. Bill changed the entire breakfast game, he was an absolute gentleman.”

After dropping out of art school, Granger opened his first restaurant, bills, in Sydney in 1993 at the age of 22. His warm, sunny approach and new style of breakfasts quickly put him on the food map, with locals and visitors flocking to the little corner site in Darlinghurst, renowned for its avocado toast and buzzy yet relaxed atmosphere.

In 2008, bills went international, with branches opening in Tokyo, London, Seoul and Hawaii, later expanding to 19 restaurants globally. He made London his home in 2014.

Granger wrote 12 cookbooks, selling more than 1 million copies, and made five cookery TV series viewed in more than 30 countries.

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He was made an officer of the Order of Australia in January 2023 for his contribution to tourism and hospitality.

‘He understood that people don’t get up in the morning and say they want to eat oysters with foam on them, they get up and say they want beautifully cooked eggs. Bill perfected this, he made it an art form.’
Chef Neil Perry

Chef Neil Perry, who has known Granger for 30 years, said through his bills restaurants he changed the benchmark for what made a great breakfast in Australia, then took that to the world.

“He was not a chef, but he thought deeply about flavour, he understood what makes things delicious. He was a game changer, he just cooked food that was simple, beautiful and casual and then found the world loved him for it.”

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With 19 restaurants around the world, Granger was by far our most successful international restaurateur and culinary export.

“He understood that people don’t get up in the morning and say they want to eat oysters with foam on them, they get up and say they want beautifully cooked eggs. Bill perfected this, he made it an art form,” Perry said.

Perry described him as “the most decent and charming man” who was always upbeat. “He adored his family.”

Granger had an incredible partnership with his wife, Natalie. Bill was the creative force while Natalie was the motor who helped drive the 19-restaurant business.

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Chef Kylie Kwong worked as head chef overseeing bills and bills 2 (the second bills to open, in Surry Hills) in the late 1990s. Then, in 2000, she and Granger opened the small but much-loved Billy Kwong in Surry Hills.

Granger taught her how to run a small, family-style business, which remained at the heart of the Granger empire.

“He inspired me, he inspired so many people. He was able to capture the essence of what people love about Australia, that we are open and sunny and bright, and put this on a restaurant dining table,” Kwong said.

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Andrea McGinnissAndrea McGinniss is digital editor for Good Food.
Ardyn BernothArdyn Bernoth is National Good Food Editor.

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Original URL: https://www.smh.com.au/goodfood/eating-out/australian-food-writer-and-restaurateur-bill-granger-has-died-aged-54-20231227-p5etre.html