Hooked on Christmas: Seafood feast

ENOUGH, Australia! It's time for this whole traditional versus modern Christmas debate to stop.

seafod platter taste dec 3

ENOUGH, Australia! It's time for this whole traditional versus modern Christmas debate to stop.

In 2012 they are one and the same. Our festive feast has it all: the hams and turkeys and puddings of our European ancestors, the seafood, salads and frozen desserts of the summer season, and all the tantalising recipes and flavours we've learnt from a whole world of Christmas cooks.

So this week, we'll start with a fishy tale then move to the other festive feasting must-haves in the weeks to come.

"Seafood is part of our Christmas culture," says James Viles of the celebrated NSW restaurant Biota Dining.

"It's so bloody hot we want to eat something cool, and we're all feeling casual and relaxed and seafood lends itself to the mood of all of that.

"Seafood is also at its best at this time of year so for most of us who don't buy 5kg of prawns or a couple of lobsters the rest of the time, it's great."

This year Spencer Gulf prawns from the fisheries off Port Lincoln in South Australia are providing big hauls so it's going to be a bumper year for prawn lovers, whether they want either cooked or green versions.

And in another plus for seafood fans, Woolworths also recently helped the Northern Prawn Fishery gain Marine Stewardship Council approval for its endeavour, banana and tiger prawns which it will stock this Christmas. MSC approvals means the prawns are sustainable and in abundant supply. So, bring on the catch. 

COOKED PRAWN STARS

TWO magic words for lazy, last-minute entertainers and anyone looking for a fast track to fab food: cooked prawns. Throw them on a platter with some lemon wedges, a zesty dipping sauce and a few finger bowls and your work is done.

For Adelaide's Chris Jarmer, who has just opened Scool Eatery and Bar in Glenelg at the Oaks Plaza Pier Hotel, and David Jones' fishmonger in Adelaide Central Plaza, a retro prawn cocktail with a sauce of mayo, tomato and tabasco sauce, white pepper and lemon juice is a crowd-pleasing option. "I think it's making a comeback; I have a new version of it on the menu at Scool. Lettuce, prawns and cocktail sauce," he says.

The more contemporary prawn cocktail that's on the Biota Dining menu works nicely with seasonal produce.

"The butter lettuce is young and crisp and perfect right now so I serve it with prawns and a sauce made by emulsifying flat-leaf parsley and basil, cornichons or gherkins and a little olive oil," says James.

Pesto is another favourite. Go for a traditional basil and pine nut, an Asian style bursting with coriander, chilli and lime, and a fresh mint and pistachio version. 

For this season's MasterChef winner, Andy Allen, whatever you choose to serve on Christmas Day it must not take you away from the festivities. "I love seafood, especially this time of the year. Christmas isn't the same without a massive seafood feast with our family.

"And, as much as I like to cook, you want to be at the actual party having a good time, so basically I like to do as much as possible before," he says, suggesting that green prawns on the barbie with a bowlful of salsa verde  -  the classic piquant sauce made with green leafy herbs  - you can do just that.

"The salsa verde can be made days before and all you need to do is simply grill prawns on the barbie, which takes about a minute." 

SALMON SAVIOURS

ASIDE from Santa, smoked salmon is possibly the hardest worker of the party season, making an appearance at just about every meal. Want to have more than Vegemite on toast on Christmas morning? Smoked salmon eggs benedict to the rescue. Looking for finger food to serve with the first glass of bubbly?

A platter of smoked salmon with cream cheese dip and sourdough is as easy as it gets.

Andy says his salmon rillettes are perfect for December entertaining.

His recipe, featuring both fresh and smoked fish, makes use of salmon's most celebrated flavour pairings: dill, lemon, and capers, with cornichons and cr agrme fraiche adding zing.

"It freaks people out a bit, but once they taste it, they are pretty stoked," says Andy, who is about to publish his first cookbook The Next Element. 

THE WHOLE TRUTH

IF YOU'VE ever watched a cook bring a whole cooked fish to the table, you'd think they'd caught it themselves. But the look of pride is really saying, "Hey, I may look like a five-star chef, but it was easier than you think."

And it's true. Unlike the ubiquitous turkey, a whole salmon is very forgiving to cook  - a little over or under cooking won't ruin it  - and looks mega impressive at the table. The poached version, a summer classic that crops up on many a Christmas menu, is a lovely choice, but remember you need a pot that's big enough to hold the fish.

An easier option is to wrap it in foil and bake, or barbecue it with Asian aromatics or cook it unadorned to serve with a hollandaise sauce or herby dressing and potato salad.

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SEAFOOD PLATTER

- Serves 8

- Preparation time: 20 minutes (plus 15 minutes marinating)

- Cooking time: 20 minutes

- Skills needed: Basic-intermediate 

**

1/4 cup olive oil

2 tsp lemon rind, finely grated

1/4 cup lemon juice

2 tbsp chives, finely chopped

1kg cleaned calamari hoods, halved lengthways

1kg medium green king prawns, peeled, tails intact, deveined

2 x firm white fish fillets, quartered

2 x ocean trout fillets, quartered

2 tbsp fresh flat-leaf parsley leaves, roughly chopped

Lemon wedges and aioli (garlic mayonnaise), to serve

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Whisk oil, lemon rind, juice and chives together. Score inside of calamari hoods in a criss-cross pattern. Cut into 3cm-wide pieces. Place calamari and prawns in a glass bowl. Place fish in a separate glass bowl. Pour half the oil mixture over calamari and coat. to coat. Pour remaining oil over the fish. to coat. Cover. Chill for 15 minutes.

Preheat a lightly greased barbecue plate on medium-high. Cook calamari mixture, in batches, tossing, 3 to 4 minutes or until just cooked through. Transfer to a bowl. Cover.

Cook fish mixture for 3-4 minutes each side or until cooked through.

Place seafood on a platter. with salt and pepper. Top with parsley. Serve with lemon wedges and aioli.

Recipe: Claire Brookman

Picture: Mark O'Meara

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ANDY'S SALMON RILLETTE

- Serves 6-8

- Preparation time: 15 minutes

- Cooking time: 35 minutes

- Skills needed: Intermediate

** 

300g piece salmon fillet, skinned and boned

2 sourdough baguettes

1/3 cup extra virgin olive oil

200g smoked salmon, chopped

2 tbsp baby capers, finely chopped

1 eschalot, finely chopped

Zest of 2 lemons

1/2 bunch dill, finely chopped

1/2 bunch chives, finely chopped

200ml creme fraiche

Cornichons (small pickled cucumbers)

Lemon cheeks to serve

Salt and freshly ground black pepper to season

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Place fresh salmon in a heavy-based saucepan.

Pour 1 litre boiling water over fish and cover with a tight-fitting lid. Stand for 30 minutes to gently poach.

Meanwhile, heat a char-grill pan or barbecue to medium-high heat. Brush bread with oil and char-grill for 2 minutes on each side or until lightly charred. Set aside.

Remove cooked salmon from water and pat dry. Remove and discard skin. Flake flesh into a large bowl and cool completely.

Add smoked salmon, capers, eschalot, lemon zest, herbs and creme fraiche. Stir until just combined. Season with salt and freshly ground black pepper.

Serve rillettes with bread, cornichons and lemon cheeks.