The overlooked Victorian region foodies are now rediscovering
The food bowl of Victoria is often overlooked as a gastronomic playground but Melburnians are slowly discovering its joys, which include fresh seafood, incredible wines and red meat sought after by Australia’s best restaurants.
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Yarra Valley, of course. Mornington Peninsula, you bet. But Gippsland? The food bowl of Victoria is often overlooked as a gastronomic playground. But Melburnians are slowly discovering its joys are not only confined to scenic driving routes through lush farmlands and rolling hills, or its pristine beaches to the south, or its lakes to the east.
A vast region that stretches from Melbourne’s urban fringe to the NSW border, Gippsland’s rich fertile soils and high rainfall produces more than 20 per cent of Australia’s dairy, its grass-fed beef and lamb sought after by the best restaurants in the country.
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With such a coastline, seafood, of course, features prominently, and its temperate climate creates incredible wines, including pinot noir.
And while the farther reaches of Bairnsdale and beyond require a weekend commitment to properly enjoy, West Gippsland, which is little more than an hour from the city, can easily be discovered in a day trip — though its charms are such that it won’t be nearly long enough.
The commercial heart of West Gippsland, Warragul, is home to one of the best farmers markets in the land and a restaurant doing its best to put the region on every food-lover’s radar.
At Hogget Kitchen — currently ranked 60 in the delicious.100 list of Victoria’s 100 best restaurants — chef Trevor Perkins cooks local lamb and grass-fed angus and Noojee trout in the smoker out front, often with vegetables dropped off by the growers themselves.
It’s reason alone to jump in the car — it’s a glorious spot for Sunday lunch — but March 30 provides another.
For on that Saturday, the tiny town of Jindivick will become a food lover’s haven when a contingent of Australia’s best chefs join local country culinary talent in a total town takeover.
The Village Feast will transform the town for one day only, with Shannon Martinez from vegan restaurant Smith & Daughters manning the green grocers, Victor Liong (Lee Ho Fook) running the Chinese restaurant and Matt Moran on the pans at the Jindi Caf.
Carlton’s Hotel Lincoln will join with Orbost brewers Sailors Grave to run a pub, Gippsland Jersey milk will be put to delicious use in the old-school milk bar, and Loch Brewery and Distillery will be on G+T duties, among a heap of other delicious attractions.
While the recent bushfires highlight the destructive flip side to the area’s natural beauty, just as with other towns that have experienced devastating fires, it’s important for visitors to return, not only to show support but to spend the tourism dollars vital to these communities.
The fire in Bunyip State Park was yet to be brought under control at the time of writing — the Village Feast was originally scheduled for this weekend but was postponed for this reason — so check emergency.vic.gov.au before making a trip to the area.
But when you do, here are some must-do highlights to make the most of a visit.
GROVE IS IN THE HEART
What was a working farm shed but nine months ago has been dramatically transformed into The Grove Gippsland, a restaurant and bar set among 24ha and 1700 namesake olive trees that opened last month.
With the rolling hills of Kernot and Krowera the backdrop to a meal, chef Anthony Ellis serves a three-course grazing menu where communal refractory-style dining tables inspire conversations with neighbours.
A platter of cured meats served with housemade 36-hour sourdough and smoked whipped butter might be followed by terrific Lakes Entrance fish croquettes, then feast of meat — roasted Amber Creek pork with roasted plums, a hefty cutlet of Gippsland Natural lamb with chimichurri and bright apple cabbage slaw. It’s nicely done food made for long feasting.
A bar area with plump chesterfields, fire — and a separate snack menu — will be the spot to be in winter.
Manager Fiona Routledge says the team wants to show visitors just how good the region’s produce is.
“This was a shed in the middle of nowhere, but we’ve dressed it up. It’s about how best to put Gippsland produce on the plate,” she says.
“People don’t know about Gippsland. People down here are always saying, ‘we’re about to take off’, but they’ve been saying that for ages. We want to be part of making South Gippsland what it should be.”
— The Grove Gippsland, 27 Uren Rd, Kernot. thegrovegippsland.com
COOK AT BOROUGH
One of the first people to put Gippsland on the food map was Tamsin Carvan, who invited people into her farmhouse kitchen for a true paddock to plate experience at Tamsin’s Table. Tamsin has since sold the farm but has now put her energies toward creating The Borough Dept. Store.
Set in the former Parry’s Department Store in Korumburra, the Borough is a showcase of Gippsland through a collective of local businesses including a homewares stall, florist, a pantry stocked with local dry goods, savoury fare from Udder + Co (including get-in-the-car-NOW sausage rolls) and Tamsin’s amazing sweet baked treats.
Add a low-fi bottle shop that opened just before Christmas with a focus on organic wines from near and far, and The Borough is a one-stop shop shining a light on the best of the region.
“There once was a thought that for people from Melbourne, why would they stop here? But there’s a real growing confidence that Gippsland has lots to offer. Now, there’s a critical mass of local producers offering something for the visitor,” Tamsin says.
“When I started (Tamsin’s Table) it was struggle to get people to visit. Now, seven years later awareness of what’s down here as grown. People are starting to realise there’s this beautiful undiscovered place just 90 minutes from the city.”
TO MARKET
On the third Saturday of the month, the Warragul farmers market is a terrific snapshot of the best produce of the area, whether a huge array of spuds from Jones potatoes, wild-caught seafood from Lakes Entrance, smooth and creamy Gippsland Jersey milk, pasture-raised chooks from Mirboo poultry, superb sourdough from Cannibal Creek bakery and many more.
Other times, the Baw Baw Food Hub is a terrific spot to pick up organic fruit and veg straight from the farm, and Lakes Entrance flathead, whiting and scallops.
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In the fridge you’ll find milk and yoghurt from micro dairy The Butterfly Factory, which sources its milk from a single herd of dual-purpose Fleckvieh cows in Poowong.
Heralded by chefs as some of the best yoghurt around, it’s used at Hogget Kitchen and O.My in Beaconsfield.
BREAKFAST OF CHAMPIONS
Come for the bees, stay for breakfast and dine out on incredible views. That’s what it’s all about at Vue at Jindivick, where spectacular vistas of Mt Baw Baw is just one of the attractions Anita and Paul Day have in store at their eco bed and breakfast in the Jindivick bushland.
Hives of bees where beekeeper Marty Dunn runs hands-on beginners courses is another. He’ll be hosting one-hour intensive courses on Sunday March 31 after the Village Feast, where participants will suit up and inspect a hive in all its industrious glory. It’s great, informative fun.
And that breakfast? From honey harvested from out the back to Cannibal Creek rye, and Gippsland Jersey milk for your coffee and Tarago cheddar for your toast and Anita’s housemade granola for your bowl, this really is a breakfast
of champions it’s a wonder to awake to.
Another excellent option for accommodation in the area includes the stylish surrounds of Vivere Retreat in Neerim South, a perfect spot to base for a few days exploring the region.
LOCH DISTILLERY
“The simple joy of talking to people about what we do, and to see their awareness, to experience something new is amazing,” Craig Johnston says.
In Loch’s historic old red-brick bank building Craig and partner Melinda Davies make traditional ales and modern gins and a much anticipated single malt.
“We’re reviving old techniques,” Craig says, who’s on hand to talk tasters through the gins and beers that are served in flight, martini and g+t form, with drinkers welcome to BYO picnics or cheese and bites picked up from across the road at Udder + Hoe to enjoy with their tipple here.
— 44 Victoria Rd, Loch. lochbrewery.com.au
TRUE BREW
Opening six months ago, Burra Brewing Co is a microbrewery where you can drink the product while the brewer brews around you.
A changing line up of beers includes a bright lager, fruity pale ale and a perfect-for-drivers summer ale at 2.5%.
There are pizzas from the wood oven, live music on Sundays and cans in the fridge for home.
With seating in the front courtyard and in the brewhouse for up to 150, Burra is the new home of beaut Gippy brews.
— 12 Commercial St, Korumburra. burrabrewingco.com.au
WINE O’CLOCK
The secret is out — Gippsland wines are awesome. Head to the Dirty 3 urban cellar door in Inverloch for a crash course in all the good stuff, especially pinot noir.
Winemaker Marcus Satchell makes wines from three patches of Gippland dirt — Berrys Creek, Tilson and Holgates Road — as well as a “Sourced by Satch” range from grapes grown across the state.
The urban tasting room in Inverloch – dubbed D3HQ – is a funky spot for a platter of cheese and charcuterie and a splash of something delicious, a spot of bocce and music on Sunday arvos.
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Closer to Melbourne, Cannibal Creek is an award-winning single estate vineyard manned by husband and wife team Pat and Kirsten Hardiker.
Taste the range of that includes a delicate blanc de blanc, signature chardonnay and pinot noir and the unique vin de liqueur — a French-style fortified wine — over platters of charcuterie and cheese in the handsome dining room or out on the veranda.
— Dirty Three Wines, Cashin St, Inverloch. dirtythreewines.com.au
Cannibal Creek, 260 Tynong N Rd, Tynong. cannibalcreek.com.au
— Dan Stock travelled with the assistance of Destination Gippsland. destinationgippsland.com.au