Sardine in Paynesville serves fresh fish to locals and holidaymakers on Gippsland Lakes

THERE’S probably no fish that’s more disliked than the humble sardine, but ex-Vue de monde chef Mark Briggs is winning the haters over at his great Gippsland Lakes restaurant, writes Dan Stock.

THEY have a heap of heart-healthy omega-3 and are bursting with vitamin B12, they’re a top source of calcium and melanoma-free vitamin D and are packed with enough protein to keep a walnut-filled condom pumping iron for hours.

But rather than being hailed as a superfood, there’s probably no fish more reviled than the sardine – save, perhaps, the anchovy.

It’s a brave move then for Mark Briggs to name his first restaurant after the fish that’s known as a pilchard in his native UK, especially when many of the seafaring folk who call this part of the Gippsland Lakes home think of a sardine as little more than bait. Or cat food.

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But Mark is winning the haters over one bowl of Lakes Entrance beauties at a time.

Fresh off the boat and into the pan, a half dozen whole fish are pitch-perfectly cooked, the flesh without a hint of the fishiness familiar to its canned cousins effortlessly falling from the spine. A sprinkle of salt flakes and a squeeze of lemon lets the flappingly fresh fish shine, though a sauce of blitzed coriander hiding pops of finger lime adds just the right amount of verdant vibrancy and native ingredient trend ($19).

A pan of Lakes Entrance beauties at Sardine, Paynesville. Photos: Dannika Bonser

It’s a win for sardines – and Sardine is a win for Gippsland.

Mark and partner Victoria Hollingsworth opened Sardine last October just in time for summer.

Tonight, the gas fire underneath an artful photograph of silvery-glistening namesakes is keeping the stylish, fully booked room toasty warm on a drizzly cold night, but the floor-to-ceiling windows that concertina open provide an inkling into how sunshiny days and long-light nights are spent here.

Rocking a beachy-breezy vibe, supremely comfortable felt-cushioned chairs surround well-spaced, large blond wood tables set with lovely Portuguese crockery, elegant English cutlery and paper napkins (*sigh*). It’s a simple space that segues from Sunday brunches through long lunches into afternoons of charcuterie and Gippsland cheeses and dinner five nights a week.

The British-born chef who called Melbourne home for the past decade or so has a CV that includes head chef stints at Vue de monde, the Sharing House and most recently Waterfront at Southgate, but it was his time working in Pierre Koffman’s three Michelin-starred La Tante Claire kitchen in London that informs his magnificent fisherman’s stew.

A full complement of good stuff from the sea – pieces of snapper, whole prawns, mussels, bugs and clams – come swimming in a broth that’s sea salty and sweet, tomato bright and saffron sunny, full of roasted bone depth and incredible length. Served alongside a small bowl of grated parmesan and jersey cream butter, excellent crunchy-crusted sourdough from La Matanza bakery in Rivendell is on sopping duties. It’s a knockout ($32).

The bright and breezy dining room is warmly inviting in winter, but opens up to let the sun shine during summer.

Earlier, a two-bite snack to get things started: a dice of Alfonzo (a deep sea fish, that’s slightly sweet, our waitress explained unbidden) seasoned with ponzu (a tangy-tart Japanese condiment) and shiso (a mint-like herb) served on a crisp wonton wrapper ($4). It’s a tasty Asian-influenced opener that’s as trend aware as a generous tranche of roasted chicken and pistachio terrine is classic ($17). A terrific Earl Grey jelly alongside adds a citric lilt to the terrine dense with roasted white and brown meat.

But we’re here for the fish, and today’s “roasted fish” — snapper — is another standout dish on the menu that changes almost daily. Buttery potato puree is the decadent pillow on which squares of golden, crisp-skinned, delicately cooked fish rest. Fat diamond clams (from Cloudy Bay in NZ) add juicy saltiness, while chunks of bacon and peas add smoke and sweet that’s complemented by saline beach bananas from the shore.

Gippsland smoked eel with apple and bacon is one of the ever-changing small plates

With just Mark in the kitchen there’s no one else to thank for such a deft dish, but Victoria (ex Lamaro’s) runs the front with the help of a couple of local youngsters and she’s done a brilliant job of training. Our waitress knew her stuff and would run rings around so many “cool” city servers. What a lovely surprise. As is the Gippsland-celebrating small wine list, and starting with a German-style sour from new Orbost Brewers Sailor’s Grave, and finishing the last crisp bits of duck fat potato and squishy roasted garlic from the bottom of the bowl that’s a non-negotiable side ($8).

Roasted fillet of fish with celeriac, black garlic and tempura oyster showcases a respect for great produce with a nod to trends that’s a hallmark of a meal at Sardine.

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An apple and quince terrine with a granola of whole nuts and dehydrated apple is both rustic and refined, a softly spiced full stop to an incredibly enjoyable meal ($14).

It’s impressive offering at every step, a restaurant that wouldn’t look out of place in the city but is perfectly at home here, catering to locals and holidaymakers alike. No easy feat.

It might be an unliked fish there’s so much to love about this Sardine. If I were a fish in need of some reputation management, I’d be very happy with Mark and Victoria in my corner.

Sardine

65 Esplanade, Paynesville

sardineeaterybar.com

Ph: 5156 7135

Open: Tue-Sat noon-9pm; Sun 8am-4pm

Go-to dish: Lakes Entrance sardines

Score: 15/20

Originally published as Sardine in Paynesville serves fresh fish to locals and holidaymakers on Gippsland Lakes