The Mulberry Group reveals plans for two Abbotsford venues Molli and Little Molli
The Melbourne cafe king behind Lune and Square One coffee is opening two more venues in Abbotsford— weeks after revealing a new restaurant and deli are on the way this winter.
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A Melbourne cafe king is opening another two venues— weeks after revealing he was opening a new restaurant and deli this winter.
The Mulberry Group boss Nathan Toleman plans to launch Little Molli and Molli in Abbotsford this June.
The news comes weeks after Toleman revealed he was opening two restaurants with hummus king Tom Sarafian; daytime eatery and deli, Sarafian, and Middle Eastern restaurant Zareh.
Toleman said both projects had been a long time coming.
“It’s been about two years in the making,” he told the Herald Sun.
“I first looked at the (Molli) site six to 12 months ago... we started buiding six weeks ago.”
“With (Zareh), I’d been a fan of Tom’s for a long time and we caught up about 18 months ago and have been formulating what the concept would be and finding the right site since.”
All-day cafe Little Molli will sling coffee by Square One Coffee Roasters, also under his empire, alongside chunky focaccia sangers such as smoked pork shoulder with whipped cod roe, and cured meats.
By night, the space will transform into Molli; a neighbourhood bar and bistro with Hazel head chef Aleksis Kalnins on the tools.
Expect a mix of small and large share plates such as pork neck skewers swiped in date puree or horseradish slathered whole alpine trout.
“The food (will) be simple enough not to scare my mum and technical enough to make my chef friends wonder how I did it,” Kalnins said.
Produce will be sourced from the group’s Freshwater Creek farm, which also houses Common Ground Project.
Molli and Little Molli will live opposite one of Toleman’s first Melbourne cafes, Three Bags Full, which he opened 14 years ago.
Toleman is one of the city’s largest hospitality players, responsible for well-known venues such as Lune, Hazel restaurant and bar Dessous, La Cantina, Common Ground Project, Lilac Wine, Heide Kitchen and Liminal; inside the 101 Collins building. He also founded coffee roastery Square One.
Toleman said he wanted Molli and Little Molli to feel like a second home for diners.
“The sort of place you come back to because it feels like being welcomed home
and where you come to celebrate, have dates, a catch up with mates or just a casual post-work
drink,” he said.
Molli and Little Molli, 20-30 Mollison Street, Abbotsford, molliabbotsford.com.au
Reality TV cooking show royalty cooking in Ballarat
Ballarat toastie king Tim Bone’s career is as jam-packed as one of his fat sangers.
Since appearing on MasterChef Australia, the home cook has opened his own toastie truck – which roams his hometown every weekend – and co-host TV’s ‘Good Chef, Bad Chef’.
Next month he’ll share his sanger hacks and other kitchen secrets at Sovereign Hill’s Heritage Harvest Weekend in Ballarat.
In it’s third year, the two-day event marks the end of the regional city’s 10-day Heritage Festival.
He’ll join MasterChef Australian alumni Julie Goodwin and Melbourne chef and Great Australian Bake Off host Darren Purchase.
Goodwin will share her tips on pickling and preserves, showing punters how to make her famed spiced chutney.
The special guests will also participate in a special Q+A, hosted by Herald Sun food and wine editor Kara Monssen.
Purchase said he was excited to be returning to Sovereign Hill, for many reasons.
“I am keen to learn the secrets to famous raspberry drops while I’m in town,” he said.
“I first visited Sovereign Hill when I arrived in Australia many years ago and it continues to be a rite of passage for people across Australia.”
“I can’t wait to connect with visitors while sharing some handy tips and insights into creating
delicious, sweet treats this autumn.”
More than 30 local producers will line Sovereign Hill’s main street as part of a village market, including the Country Women’s Association goodies, Ballarat bakery 1816 Bakehouse, Kildernkin Distillery and Daylesford’s Kaokao Miso.
Tickets start at $49 for an adult, $29 for a child and $132 for a family of four (two adults, two kids).
Heritage Harvest Weekend, May 25-26, 10am to 5pm, hhw.sovereignhill.com.au
Is distillery diving the new pub crawl?
First came wine bars and breweries, now Melbourne distilleries are levelling up their food game.
Starward Whisky recently overhauled the design of its Port Melbourne distillery, appointing ex-Eau de Vie chef Drew Traynor to call the shots in its new-look kitchen.
She has also launched a three-course “chef’s selection” menu, upping the food offering and matching each course with a whisky-based cocktail.
The move follows regional distilleries playing in the space.
Ballarat’s Itinerant Spirits, via The Atlantic Group, has curated a full menu to enjoy alongside your locally distilled gin, whisky and vodka.
Meanwhile, Koji Bird restaurant at Bright’s Reed and Co Distillery launched its Aussie chicken shop meets izakaya in 2021.
Breweries have also graduated from serving chips and pizzas over the years.
Collingwood’s Molly Rose’s Chef’s Table pairs six courses (11 dishes) with craft beer.
The now-monthly sitting is helmed by Jordan Ng, who replaced outgoing head chef Ittichai “Biggie” Ngamtrairai.
Moon Dog Footscray, which was meant to open last week, promises a Wild West-themed spread of approachable North American eats to match with beer.
Starward punters can still enjoy snacks such as kangaroo sausage rolls swiped in quandong ketchup, charcuterie or jaffles while sipping local liquor, but Traynor is excited for the next chapter.
“Right now, we would be unique in what we are doing. More distilleries and breweries are going down that path and that’s great to see,” she said.
“I prefer to write our food around the whisky or drinks we are serving. We put more of a focus on drinks and how we can use the (whisky) in the food.”
An autumn garden salad with fermented vegetables, native herbs and malted barley may kick things off, followed by kangaroo cured in a new-make (unaged whisky) dressing of mountain pepper and citrus. A ‘Golden Gaytime’ vanilla and honeycomb ice cream finishes things off.
Traynor, who also worked at Cumulus Inc and 14 Days of Cheese, enjoys the challenge of working in high-buzz environments such as cocktail bars – even if they come with restraints.
“I can’t use open flame as it’s a distillery,” she said.
“We designed the kitchen to have a couple of induction cooktops, deep fryer and oven, so we are still able to run a full menu.”
Starward, 50 Bertie St, Port Melbourne, starward.com.au
George’s message to struggling hospo industry
Celebrity chef George Calombaris says chefs need to “celebrate the wins” in hospitality, as the cost of living crisis cripples the industry and diners alike.
“It’s challenging everywhere, but I feel like there’s a solution and an answer to all problems,” he said.
“We are bending our brains to figure out how we get through this bit, but that’s why it’s important to celebrate the wins.”
This Sunday, the former MasterChef Australia judge and chef is hosting the ultimate Greek fiesta to mark the first birthday of his comeback restaurant The Hellenic House Project.
World-best cocktail bar Maybe Sammy is flying in for the one-off event, fresh from its award circuit win, shaking up a mix of Greek-inspired cocktails.
Expect Calombaris’s famed souvlakis, with a few nostalgic Gazi favourites in the mix, St Gerry’s loukamades (doughnuts) and traditional Greek coffee frappés by Melvourni.
Everyone is welcome to the free-event, which kicks off from 12pm.
Calombaris said it was more important than ever to listen to your community during these hard times.
“I know people are conscientious about money and I respect that. But then we need to figure out, as a restaurant, what we’re giving back to people. We need to give them something that is valuable, where they can look back and thing: we enjoyed ourselves, that was cool,” he said.
The free event is open to the public, with food and drinks charged on consumption.
This is the first time the World’s 50 Best Bar has skipped the river to visit Melbourne after raking in a bounty of awards last year.
Not only was it rated the number one bar in Australasia for fifth consecutive year, but ranked 15th in the exclusive World’s 50 Best Bars list (the highest of any Australian venue), followed by the city’s Caretakers Cottage.
The Hellenic House Project, 21 April, 12pm to 8pm
Scopri raises a glass to new Carlton wine bar
The team behind Melbourne’s favourite BYO restaurant is calling first drinks at its new Carlton bar.
Bar Olo, by Scopri’s Anthony Scutella and wife Alison Foley, opens in an old Lebanese bakery next door to Al Dente Enoteca this Wednesday.
Playfully named after the Piedmont powerhouse wine, the 40-seater won’t be anything like its older sibling.
“This is a wine bar from grown-ups,” Scutella said. “The wine focus is strongly Italian with some back vintage pours and high quality Burgundies.”
And of course, Barolo.
The pretty, perfumed red wine is made with nebbiolo grapes (similar to pinot noir) grown in Piedmont, Italy.
He’ll have “well over 100” from his 300-strong bottle list, with magnums of Bartolo Mascarello and Giuseppe Mascarello Monprivato also on pour via the wine preservation system Coravin.
Bar Olo will also have 30 wines by the glass.
Kirsten Sattler has been appointed head chef and has created an entirely new menu for the space, which includes bar snacks such as cured fish and tramezzini (a “prawn cocktail” sandwich).
“The only same (Scopri) dish the agnolotti del plin. We will do a slight variation of that here, because its great dish to have at the bar,” Scutella said.
And sorry folks, no BYO.
Bar Olo, 165 Nicholson Street, Carlton, scopri.com.au
Hummus king launches two new venues this winter
A cafe heavyweight and condiment king are opening two new Melbourne venues this winter.
Mulberry Group boss Nathan Toleman and chef Tom Sarafian will open the first, Zareh, a restaurant and bar, in the heart of the city.
Daytime eatery and deli, Sarafian, will follow selling the chef’s cult-famous hummus, toum and harissa alongside grab-and-go eats and coffee.
Zareh, named after Tom’s grandfather, celebrates Sarafian’s Armenian heritage and will deliver a fresh mix of Middle Eastern flavours and cooking techniques.
“I’ve always been inspired by the flavours of my upbringing — Arabic and Armenian dishes — and I’m proud to dedicate this restaurant to him and my family,” he said.
“I have been working on this restaurant vision for years, so much love has gone into this, and I can’t wait for it to be a home for our city to enjoy for years to come.”
Expect breads from across the Middle East, flavours inspired by the Levant, Caucasus and North African regions, and proteins thrown over the Armenian barbecue.
At Sarafian, Arabic breakfast and lunch will be the focus, with takeaway sangas and salads and the full Sarafian condiment range at your disposal. Tom will also prepare fresh made yoghurt, cheese, jam and cured meats for the deli.
“I’ve always been really inspired by the daytime eateries and delis in Beirut, and my
dream has long been to expand my product range into a space that offers the finest
quality, authentic Arabic mouneh to use at home,” he said.
Toleman said he was stoked about the partnership.
“I feel like Tom has been working towards this his whole life and I am so honoured to be
working together to bring this vision to life,” he said.
“We’ve spent months working out the concept, finding something wholly unique that only Tom could offer.
“It’s a culmination of his world travels and experience, from working in kitchens with his father and grandfather, to his time at St John and Moro in London, the numerous pop ups and collaborations around the country and family recipes he’s inherited. It’s fundamentally ‘Sarafian cuisine’, and we’re so proud to be part of it.”
Tom is working on developing dishes for both venues, but you can count on his king prawn and spanner crab hummus, gilda and cheese ma’amoul to make a comeback.
The exact location of the two venues are yet to be revealed.
Zareh, CBD, winter 2024
Ambitious Italian fine diner coming to Malvern
How would you like your carbonara — as a cocktail or dessert?
At Malvern’s ambitious new Italian restaurant Sincero, you can have both.
“We have a very unusual menu, even the cocktails are different,” co-owner Cinzia Buono said.
“We don’t like boring desserts, it’s the last thing you eat and should be impressive.”
Take the Ovetto Alla Carbonara, an egg-shaped creation filled with caramelised guanchale and pepper, honouring three ingredients of the famed Roman dish.
“But it also has white chocolate foam, salted caramel and almond crumble. It all works together.”
Sincero is the second restaurant by Buono, her sommelier partner Fabio Magliano and friends chef Daniele Ruffulo and Micro Speri. It is opening on Glenferrie Rd this Wednesday.
The dream team is also behind Parkdale’s neighbourhood Italian restaurant Buono, which they launched in September 2020.
“Buono is in suburbs, so no tablecloths. It’s more easy going,” she said.
“Opening something on High St, Armadale has always been our dream, so when we found the space on Glenferrie Rd, we took the chance.”
Unlike Buono, Sincero will deliver a more refined dining experience, with multiple degustation options paired with either basic or premium wine or cocktails.
A short selection of handmade pastas, larger plates such as steak and fish and small bites round out the la carte offering.
“We also import our own wine, mainly Barolo and Barbaresco. Plus we will have wine from all over Italy and France, and a lot of Australian wines.”
Sincero, 283-285 Glenferrie Rd, Malvern, sincero.com.au
All-day cafe replaces urban farm on Burwood rooftop
A new all-day restaurant slinging ricotta hot cakes, rainbow salads and tricked up eggs benedict has opened in Burwood East.
Rombe moved into its rooftop digs, previously occupied by urban farm Acre restaurant and cafe, at Burwood Brickworks Shopping Centre in late March.
The new owners have made some changes: the mega 120-seater restaurant with farmhouse chic interiors and sweeping views of the Dandenong Ranges remains.
Acre’s glass house cafe, which followed a design brief similar to Sydney’s The Grounds of Alexandria and was home to the suburb’s best coffee and raspberry and white chocolate muffins, is gone.
A new Glass House function space has been created for weddings.
There is also an alfresco area for those sunny Melbourne days.
Rombe will be open from 8am daily with an all-day breakfast and lunch menu, with dinners to start late April.
Head Chef Jerry Yi (ex-Hotel Sorrento) leads the kitchen and is responsible for elevated brunch and lunch dishes.
Early favourites include hockey-puck fat blueberry and ricotta hot cakes; dripping with hot salted butterscotch, tiramisu French toast soaked in cinnamon and espresso martini syrup and salmon pastrami and eggs on a potato rosti, blanketed by a sunny hollandaise and caviar.
Lunch hits include a veg-stacked rainbow salad, double cheeseburger and steak and eggs.
Not after a full meal? Come for coffee and browse the dessert cabinet for fresh-baked cakes and pastries.
Rombe, 38-39/70 Middleborough Rd, Burwood East, rombe.com.au.
Top chef endorses gourmet dog food
A Melbourne chef who shaped the careers of the city’s top kitchen stars is barking up a new tree.
Wonderpies founder Raymond Capaldi has helped inspire a gourmet, human-grade dog food line with long-time mate Aaron Bach.
Inspiration for Larry’s Lunch came after Bach’s beloved labradoodle Larry was mauled by another dog in a freak incident while staying with a dog-sitter five years ago.
With a crushed skull and jaw, requiring multiple surgeries to fix, Larry was unable to eat kibble.
So Bach did what any pet owner would, and cooked him wholefood-based meals, such as chicken, rice and vegetables until he recovered.
“Getting him to full health was super important, and everything on the market was rubbish,” Bach said.
“Feeding your dog kibble is like giving it fast food all day. If you eat McDonald’s every day, sure you’ll save on your month-to-month food bills, but in the long run you may end up in hospital with health problems.”
Bach stayed in touch with Capaldi after supplying fish to his restaurants for many years, and sought advice on how to launch his business.
Capaldi, who led an All-Star chef ensemble Shane Delia, George Calombaris, Shannon Bennett and Gary Mehigan at Sofitel Melbourne in the noughties, was happy to help.
“I gave him this pet food book that I bought as originally we were planning on making dog biscuits with the leftover pastries for the pies,” he said.
“We decided against it, but I’m happy to provide mentorship for his business.”
Larry’s Lunch is a subscription-based, dog food delivery service. In its first year the business grew 350 per cent.
Customers can choose from either chicken, turkey, fish, beef or lamb-based meals for their pets.
Although the food is safe for human consumption, Bach won’t be tucking in any time soon.
“I could eat it, but I wouldn’t recommend it. We use offal and ground bones in the meals. That’s something I wouldn’t choose to eat, but it’s great for dogs,” he said.
Larry’s Lunch, from $25 per week, larryslunch.com.au
Yarra Valley winery named Australia’s best
Yarra Valley winemaker Sarah Crowe is best known for her cabernet sauvignon and red blends, but lately she’s been having fun with another variety.
“Because we are known as a red wine producer, I have put a lot of thought into chardonnay these last couple of years,” she said.
Yarra Yering has this year reclaimed the title of The Real Review’s Winery of the Year 2024, after first taking the gong in 2021.
While the usual suspects dazzled the judges, namely the 2021 Carrodus cabernet sauvignon and the 2022 Dry Red Wine No 1 cabernet blend, this year the 2022 chardonnay had a call up.
“The beautiful thing about 2021 was the consistency, it was a really lovely year,” she said.
Geelong’s Wine by Farr and Oakridge were also named Australia’s third and fifth best wineries in the annual list.
Crowe, who picked the last of her grapes on Monday, said the 2024 vintage was a “funny year of feast and famine.”
“We had to be patient this year and let the flavours come into the grapes. For us, it’s a ripping year for shiraz,” she said.
“It looks great, and everything us really solid. Cabernet is more consistent, but shiraz has shined in 2018, 2021 and now 2024.”
The Real Review Top Wineries of Australia list is released annually to highlight excellence in Australian wine.
More than 10,000 wines were tasted across the country as part of the reviewing process.
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