Carlton North Italian grocer Enoteca Sileno will close its bricks and mortar shop after 70 years

A stalwart grocer and bottle shop, which introduced Melbourne to panettone, gelato and extra virgin olive oil, is closing for good next month.

Enoteca Sileno is closing next month after 70 years in business.

A Carlton North grocer, which introduced the city to gelato and fresh Italian-imported panettone, is closing for good after 70 years.

Enoteca Sileno, run by John and Rosemary Portelli, will call time on the bricks and mortar side of its booming Italian grocery and wine empire on June 1.

“We have very mixed emotions ... very emotional ... about the decision,” Rosemary said.

“We have had so many beautiful comments from our suppliers and distributors, and it’s been very humbling.”

The Portellis said the decision to close after helming the family business for more than four decades was “complex”, but largely due to difficulties getting their products into the country.

John and Rosemary Portelli.

“Every year we import beautiful Italian panettone and other Christmas products, but since Easter we have had suppliers — many of whom couldn’t guarantee the product — as they couldn’t request earlier shipping,” John said.

The Middle East conflict, along with prolonged biosecurity checks upon arrival in Australia, have blown out travel times and made it harder to get fresh panettone to their loyal customers.

“All the stars aligned and the universe was telling us to stop now,” Rosemary said.

While the physical Lygon St store will close, they’ll continue to run the online, wholesale and retail arms of the business before winding those down, too.

They’ll then pass on the legacy to their son.

Since making the decision to close at Easter, the Portellis have been on the phone to all of its 120 suppliers around the world to tell them the news.

The family-owned and run business was founded by Rosemary’s dad Luigi ‘Gino’ Di Santo in 1953.

Gino Di Stano.

Enoteca Sileno was a pioneer of Italian products in Australia.

At the time, Enoteca Sileno capitalised on the arrival of hundreds of thousands of Italian refugees in Melbourne, importing everything from baby food, panettone, coffee and wine into the country.

Di Santo was responsible for introducing Melburnians to Carpigiani gelato in the ’60s, with crowds swooning over the lemon-flavoured cool treat.

He was also vying to become the first to introduce the city to Gaggia espresso coffee machines, but was beaten to the post by the Bancroft family.

Instead he imported the La Cimbali machines, installing the first at Cafe Lexington in Exhibition St in 1954.

Di Santo did succeed at becoming the first to share extra virgin olive oil, risotto rice, industrial pastas and regional Italian wines, changing the course of Australia’s viticulture industry.

John Portelli has run the Carlton North business for 40 years.

Di Santo in 1997. Picture: Joe Sabljak

Celebrity chef Claudio Brugalossi and Kate Ceberano at Enoteca Sileno’s restaurant in 2005.

“Without a doubt, Enoteca pioneered Italian wines (in Australia) which has helped enormously with the Australian viticulture industry,” John said.

In 2004, Enoteca Sileno also ran a restaurant inside its bottle shop and grocer for a decade, creating an ‘enoteca’ template for hospitality industry to follow in years to come.

“Our suppliers are extraordinary,” John said.

“None of this would have been possible if it weren’t for the support of the cosmopolitan community of Australia.”

“In my 54-years of being in this industry, the Australian palate is without a doubt the most adventurous palate in the world,” he said.

“We have 200 cultures in Melbourne and we are all so willing to try something different.”

Enoteca Sileno’s final day of trade will be on June 1.