22 must-try dishes to eat at Melbourne restaurants right now
A burger that riffs on the Maccas classic and an adults-only ice-cream sundae are among the best things we’ve eaten this year.
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It’s been another food-filled year at Kitchen Confidential. From suburban cheap eats, regional treats and push-the-boat-out city feasts – in no particular order, these are the best things that passed our lips in 2022.
1. Rocco’s Bologna Discoteca’s originario, $14
I’ve been very vocal about my love affair with the originario; a hipster riff on the Maccas cheeseburger. Think a squishy warm potato bun, stretchy mozzarella cheese, a squirt of American mustard and some locally made bologna; which is similar to mortadella. Stamp it with a sandwich press until it gets all hot and sweaty and you’ve got a mighty lunch or late night snack that’ll make old mate Ronald jealous.
2. Vue de monde smoked eel macadamia
Part of $350pp tasting menu
Yes, this is expensive. But if a special occasion calls for a fancy dinner in the clouds, look to Vue. Alas, the original version of executive chef Hugh Allen’s signature smoked eel and macadamia tofu dish has retired. But you can still taste its sheer brilliance through a summer lens on the current menu, with kelp jelly, peas and N25 caviar.
3. Yugen Dining’s smoked eel chawanmushi, $28
Smoked eel was having a moment this year, as was chawanmushi; the savoury Japanese egg custard. South Yarra’s swanky underground it-spot beneath Capitol Grand is home to chef Stephen Nairn’s clever take on the classic: all warm and silky smoked eel wedges topped with a golden breadcrumb. Go back for seconds or thirds.
4. March’s sweet and sour fried quail, $26
Small yet mighty, the bronzed fried quail at Ides chef Peter Gunn’s offshoot Collingwood bar will have you in a flap. Crunchy and juicy where it counts, each tiny club is perfectly spiced and lacquered in a sweet, tangy gloss, taking this bar snack into elite territory. Talk about finger lickin’ good.
5. Society’s scallop, green pea, horseradish and marigold, $36.50
One year after its rocky opening, Society has come into its own with executive chef Luke Headon finding his groove, especially in the posh snacks department. His latest creation is a knockout – an artfully arranged cured scallop bloom concealing pureed and fresh peas in a brown butter tuille, finished with horseradish cream and marigold oil.
6. Tino’s chorizo, $19
This scarlet sausage coil is cranked and cased out the back of Tino’s from free-range pork shoulder, paprika and cumin. The result? Perky, fork-tender meat that’s forever juicy. Unlike the more common, rubbery charcuterie-style made by the Spaniards, Tino’s chorizo is game changing. Don’t walk.
7. Jeow’s durian and white chocolate swiss roll, $16
Many dishes at Jeow could have made this list. The supple flounder, melt-your-face-off spicy duck laap, those bouncy Jerusalem artichokes and cashew tapioca balls. But months after my visit I can still taste this cloud-light dessert; which folds intense tropical durian into a white chocolate cream rolled in a coconut sponge roll with Meyer lemon marmalade tang.
8. Bottarga’s burratina, part of set menu starting at $65pp
Surely bulging burrata balls have done their dash? It’s on almost every menu across town, but Brighton’s suburban gem Bottarga gives us a new (pretty as a picture) take with bronzed fennel, a wild cherry marmalade and salty olives and capers.
9. Audrey’s squid, shiitake XO, part of a $150pp set menu
Squid or noodles? You’ll struggle to spot the difference in Audrey’s flavour-bomb dish which gets the party started with some fiery XO sauce magic.
10. Cambodia’s Kitchen’s beef khor kor, $16.90
This sweet-edged beef stew could feed two. Stupidly great value for money, this Cambodian classic packs tender beef, tripe and meatballs with noodles of your choosing.
11. Serai’s McScallop, $24 for two
Chef Ross Magnaye channels his fave after-service snacks in the McScallop. Battered and gloriously golden fried, smothered in crab fat sauce with sunny achara (unripe papaya pickle), between two toasted sweet pandesal buns. All pleasure, no guilt.
12. Anything at Chauncy, $95pp set menu
The passion project by former Grossi Florentino head chef Louis Naepels and life and business partner, sommelier Tess Murray, serves French fare for up to 20 people in the heart of Heathcote. Excellent value for a set menu. Assign a designated driver and you’re set.
13. Quarter’s ham and pineapple pizza, $26
Talk about fast food. This ham and cheese pizza took six minutes to land at my table after ordering at Hubert Estate’s casual eatery. Made from sourdough levin, its crisp and salty where it counts, the cheese a little scant but is acceptably tasty given how quickly it was slapped together.
14. Anything at Tedesca Osteria, $185pp set menu
Impossibly hard to snare a table, yet worth snapping up a last-minute booking where you can. Brigitte Hafner and James Broadway’s Mornington Peninsula restaurant uses GOAT-status produce from world-best regions to create a movable feast for its guests. Every visit will be different, but know you’ll get a selection of snacks, housemade bread, pasta, a protein and dessert.
15. La Pinta’s beetroot aleppo pepper, $12
This Reservoir wine bar also has an ever-changing menu, but if you’re lucky they’ll bring back the roasted beets: thin purple discs covered by a canopy of fresh parsley and garlic scapes, bobbing in a vibrant orange galaxy of aleppo pepper butter.
16. Benyue Kitchen crab omelette, $18.80
Aberfeldie’s local Chinese joint is home to this ethereally light creation, with each bite texturally indecipherable of what’s sweet crabmeat or egg. Add salt flakes or black pepper at your discretion. What a divinely, simple, dish.
17. Aru’s torched salmon: $30
You know the Aru classics — bahn mi pate en croute and the Bunnings-inspired duck sausage in bao — but spare a thought for the salmon. Each supple slip sports an ultra fine singed layer of skin, adding welcome, fire-powered crunch. Bathe that in a pool of orange kosho, black pepper and fennel and you have a well-rounded dish.
18. Anchor’s baklava, $22
A boulder of lavender ice cream is hatched on a twiggy pastry birds nest, showered with roasted almonds, pistachio and an uplifting honey and lemon syrup – it tastes like the OG Lebanese sweet but looks nothing like you’d expect. Mind. Blown.
19. Tulum padisah, $22
The wickedly indulgent padisah sums up Tulum best – swipe toasted bread into a glossy pool of burnt butter, caramelised onion and oozy egg to unearth salty wagyu beef pastirma strips beneath. An oldie but a goodie.
20. Connie’s Italian Diner Tirami-Sundae, $15
Satisfy your inner kid with this gimmicky sundae inside an equally kitsch disco dining room at Connie’s Italian Diner. It’s all mascarpone, espresso, savoiardi, amaro and soft serve. Note: not actual children; unless you want them buzzing off caffeine.
21. Levantine Hill’s smoked dark ‘galaxie’ chocolate
Part of set menu starting at $149pp, additional $30
A worthy add-on to your already ultra luxe Yarra Valley winery experience at Levantine Hill. An silky chocolate orb, crusted in cocoa dukkah spice drowned in a sticky chilli caramel that packs a bit of heat. It’s not for everyone, but certainly worth a whirl.
22. Grill Americano’s eye fillet, $68
A flavoursome, well-treated cut that sets the steak stakes extremely high. You will need sides, and condiments are optional but not necessary. Just add a glass of something Italian, perhaps a chianti or barolo, or a bigger Australian red to counter the meat and you’re set.
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