Rocco’s Bologna Discoteca Fitzroy restaurant review 2022: ‘Italian Maccas’ a portal to your childhood

I have a confession: I’m in love with a sandwich — the type old mate Ronald would sink after a big night out. Here’s where you can snare a taste.

Kara Monssen

3 min read

November 22, 2022 - 12:00PM

Originario Bologna Sandwich at Rocco's Discoteca Bologna. Picture: Parker Blain.

Food

Don't miss out on the headlines from Food. Followed categories will be added to My News.

Dear Rocco’s Bologna Discoteca, straight off the bat, I’m sorry.

It’s taken me so long to visit and I apologise for that.

You know, I’ve been busy: places to be, people to see.

But I did come for lunch recently and I want to confess: I’m in love.

It’s silly, I know, but I still get that heart-thumping giddiness every time I think about that sandwich.

No, not the meatball sub ($24).

That did look good, though, all crusty roll, bouncing with pork and beef meatballs snowed under by a parmesan flurry.

This was different. One of the waiters told me it looked like a cheeseburger old mate Ronald would sink after a big night out.

I can see why. The originario ($14) has that squishy warm potato bun, stretchy mozzarella cheese, a squirt of American mustard and some locally made bologna; which is similar to mortadella.

Be still, my beating heart. Picture: Parker Blain.

Rather than a pink and white patchwork of green olives and peppercorn, bologna emulsifies into one glorious porky sheet of deli meat.

And when you stamp it in the sandwich press, it gets all hot and sweaty and sizzles with a newfound sexiness. Oh boy.

It kind of weirdly reminded me of a cheeseburger I ate at my seventh birthday party at a fast food joint, except at Rocco’s I didn’t take the pickles out.

Rather respectfully, your chef Josh Fry (ex-Cumulus, Marion Wine Bar), has finely diced them with salty green olives and shallots, which gets a big thumbs-up from adult Kara.

Speaking of kids’ parties, there were a few things that took me back to the nineties, the first was your bee sting soft serve ($12).

Baked Clams Casino at Rocco's Discoteca Bologna. Picture: Parker Blain

I know it’s churned out the back of your Gertrude St diner, which looks like the set of That ’70s Show with retro timber booths, fawn-coloured walls and a handsome-looking bar space with green leather stools.

That ice-cream was distinctly sweet.

Not in a bad way (it was fabulous) but it shared a similar flavour to that no-frills tubbed variety you get at the expensive local store on a country camping trip doused in vanilla Nesquik or honey or sugary breakfast cereal.

Except yours was made with more care and expertise, served in a silver cup with a fat squiggle of vanilla cream.

Oh and the fries.

I don’t think there would be any judgment swiping those salty suckers into soft serve when the sun goes down.

Broad beans and chicory. Picture: Parker Blain.

Rocco's Bologna Discoteca is an Italian ode to Maccas.

I’ve also made a mental note to come back for your late-night menu, too.

I get it’s slightly shorter than the big dance but importantly includes my love alongside his late-night mates, namely mozzarella in carrozza (fried cheese sanger), until 1am.

You won’t find the half-dozen baked clams casino ($25) – which I found to be a roulette of either chewy tough or pleasantly briny fat nibs crunching with panko breadcrumbs.

Nor those broad beans and fried chicory ($16) wading in an olive oil pool with white radishes and fennel pollen.

It’s less fresh side salad, more pass the focaccia for mopping.

Most of Josh’s food confidently and deliciously stands up on its own, but goes great guns with booze.

Rocco’s Bologna Discoteca interior. Picture: Eugene Hyland.

Alex Pineo (of Rocco’s sister venue Poodle Bar) has plenty of vino on hand, inspired by Italy or from the motherland.

Think King Valley prosecco, Piedmontese Cortese or a Barbera blend from Emilia Romagna, while the beer is either Italian, Brunswick hipster or bogan with VB long necks.

I’ll be sure to find a seat in the narrow courtyard out the back on my return, as I bet it’ll go right off in summer.

But really, it won’t matter, as long as I get some alone time with that sanger.

Always hungry,

K-Mo.