New generation breathes life to Lygon Street
Melbourne’s Little Italy is undergoing a renaissance, as cool new eateries and hip wine bars breathe much-needed life into Lygon St. Forget Underbelly, this is “happy belly” — and we’ve got the restaurants you must try.
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It’s out with the red gingham tablecloths and in with orange wines.
Melbourne’s Little Italy is undergoing a renaissance, with cool new eateries and hip wine bars giving new life to Lygon St and transforming it into one of Melbourne’s most exciting dining precincts.
Forget Underbelly, this is a new era of happy belly.
A reborn Lygon St legend cemented the return to Carlton’s hotspot heyday. First opening its doors in 1884, last December, one of Australia’s first grocers was reimagined for the 21st century.
The new-look King & Godfree is a multi-level food playground that encompasses a deli and espresso bar, a wine bar and bottle shop called Agostino and a rooftop bar called Johnny’s Green Room that’s named after a notorious all-night pool hall where the original Carlton Crew gangsters were often seen.
King & Godfree director Jamie Valmorbida said a new generation of operators had given renewed energy to the area, but it was the combination of the old and new that made Lygon St such a vibrant retail and dining precinct.
“There’s the next gen like the Carlton Wine Room but also iconic businesses like Cinema Nova and Readings that draw people to the area from across town,” he said.
“Carlton’s always been cool, but not trendy and that’s given it longevity. Hopefully we’ve played our part in revitalising the area, maintaining the quality.”
At the other end of the street, brothers Robert and Victor Zagame opened their 97-room hotel, Zagame’s House in May.
The $18 million transformation of their Downtowner Hotel into funky boutique accommodation complete with a wine bar and bottle shop featuring biodynamic, organic and skin-contact “orange” wines has brought a younger demographic to the area.
Robert Zagame said they wanted to add something to the area that was new but paid respect to the heritage of the strip.
“Carlton has been shaped by humble, hardworking Italians, for us it has always been inspirational and innovative, a place that beckons something new. When we were dreaming up Zagame’s House, we knew that our Carlton location was perfect for our hotel as the area was ready for a revival, a shake-up,” he said. “Carlton, in its history, has always welcomed people, be they migrants or students. We have drawn inspiration from this and the regeneration of our hotel mirrors the transition that Lygon Street is undergoing at present.”
Long synonymous with cheap and cheerful pizza and pasta, the street now also has a bona fide fine diner.
Daylesford’s much-loved Kazuki’s relocated to Carlton at the end of last year, with husband-and-wife team Kazuki and Saori Tsuya serving a multi-course meal of refined European-accented Japanese in high-end surrounds.
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Kazuiki said he was glad to have opened his restaurant in Carlton and not in another inner suburb, such as Collingwood or South Yarra.
“There’s a great energy about Carlton,” he said.
“It’s a very beautiful area, Lygon Street it’s very busy, the bars are always full and it’s walking distance from the CBD.”
Don’t miss the 2019 delicious.100 when we rate the 100 most delicious restaurants in Victoria. Get it in the Sunday Herald Sun on October 13.