The Cuckoo Restaurant Olinda set to reopen under new owner Eric Walters
It was a beloved Melbourne institution for more than 60 years, now a new owner has revealed exciting plans to bring The Cuckoo back to life.
Outer East
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Olinda institution The Cuckoo is coming back to life, with the venue’s new owner revealing exciting plans to reinvigorate the beloved icon.
The German-inspired tourist mecca, which pioneered the smorgasbord concept in Australia, traded successfully for 62 years until Covid hit, with the restaurant shutting its doors in 2020.
Now new owner Eric Walters is excited to reopen the doors, hopefully by the end of this year, giving a fresh new look to the beloved venue while retaining its charm.
The plan is to open a new look restaurant without the smorgasbord, serving a range of high quality beverages and food.
The venue will also host weddings and conferences again, and there are plans for live music.
It will retain its German-Austrian feel, but the exact details are still being determined, with the local community being consulted on what it wants to see.
“We will definitely reopen as The Cuckoo – it’s back, it’s happening,” Mr Walters said.
“It’s worn down and needs some love to bring it back to today’s standards but we are being very careful to respect the existing brand.
“Everyone knows The Cuckoo – we want to maintain that and bring a new life to it.”
“It won’t be a smorgasbord because obviously with Covid these days smorgasbords are not in.
“We’re looking to serve high quality local produce.”
Mr Walters also owns the Grand Ridge Brewery in Mirboo North, South Gippsland, and said customers would be able to look forward to beers from the brewery and Twisted Sister ciders.
Mr Walters said he was currently going through the planning process with Yarra Ranges Council, and he was hopeful The Cuckoo would be fully reopened by the end of the year.
It is already back open selling coffees each weekday morning from a takeaway window, with plans for egg and bacon rolls and gourmet toasties on the way, as Mr Walters talks with locals about what they want to see at the new look venue.
“I’ve lived in the hills for 30 years and want to make sure it’s what the broad community wants to see,” he said.
“Everyone is excited and keen for it to reopen.
“It’s famous for offering a lot of fun, a lot of frivolity and a lot of entertainment and I don’t see that disappearing.”
Whether the German theme is seven days a week or moderated for different parts of the week is still up in the air.
“We’re listening and talking to people,” Mr Walters said.
“We’ve got to get it right.
“We’ve got to make sure everyone comes in and has a great time, eats fantastic local produce, and local producers and growers are supported.
“We want it to be really good for the local community long term.
“It also obviously generates a lot of tourism which is great for the whole area as well, for jobs and the economy.
“It’s been an iconic part of the hills for a long, long time and it’s just great to see it back.
“(Before I purchased it) I thought ‘This just can’t stop and disintegrate.’
Mr Walters said it had been heartwarming to hear the community’s feedback so far.
“Everyone you talk to has some connection with the place – either their parents worked there or fell in love there,” he said.
“It’s such an iconic brand and everyone has a happy feeling about it.”
Former manager Andrei Koeppen, whose parents Karin and Willi Koeppen started the restaurant in 1958, previously told Leader the loss of international tourists, combined with lockdowns and restrictions on buffet dining, made it too hard for the business to survive.
Mr Koeppen said when his parents opened The Cuckoo it was an instant success, and had remained popular right until Covid closed the doors in 2020.
“We estimate the Cuckoo has served around 10 million customers in its history,” he said.
“It is widely regarded as one of the oldest restaurants in Australia and possibly the most popular.”
Famous guests included former Prime Minister Bob Hawke, The Rolling Stones and Beatle George Harrison.
The Cuckoo was originally The Quamby, which started in 1904 as a small tea room on the road to Olinda before Karin and Willi purchased it in 1958.
At the time, Willi was Australia’s most famous ‘Masterchef’ with regular TV and radio shows.
Willi disappeared in 1976 and the case remains an open investigation with the Victoria Police Missing Persons division.
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