Karin Koeppen The Cuckoo restaurant founder dies after illness
Karin Koeppen, the woman who hosted most of Melbourne at her famous restaurant, The Cuckoo, has died never knowing what happened to her husband, celebrity chef Willi.
Outer East
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Tributes are pouring in for Karin Koeppen, who hosted most of Melbourne for dinner at her famous restaurant The Cuckoo, after she died aged 87 – never knowing what happened to her celebrity chef husband Willi.
Karin, a mum of three, grandma, and great grandma, whose husband Willi’s disappearance remains an enduring mystery, had been battling Parkinson’s disease and dementia.
She died peacefully at an aged care home in Boronia on July 24.
“Karin from the iconic Cuckoo restaurant was a generous loving spirit who hosted much of Melbourne for dinner and special events for more than 62 years,” a tribute in the Herald Sun said.
“Remembered and sadly missed by many.”
Karin and Willi Koeppen started the Olinda restaurant in 1958.
At the time, Willi was Australia’s most famous ‘Masterchef’ with regular TV and radio shows.
Willi disappeared in 1976 and the case remains an open investigation with the Victoria Police Missing Persons division.
Karin’s son, Andrei Koeppen, said his mum had lived a very full life.
“Her many years at The Cuckoo Restaurant put her in contact with literally millions of people,” he said.
“She was charismatic, with a warm sense of humour and a very kind heart. Many people have enjoyed her generosity and support over the years.”
He said Karin was born in Langenreichenbach, Germany, a small town about 50km northeast of Leipzig, on December 26, 1934.
Her parents were farmers. She had two sisters and two brothers. Karin migrated to Australia in 1956, aged 21, to work at the Melbourne Olympic Games. Shortly after arriving in Melbourne she met Willi, a renowned TV chef. They married in 1957 and a year later they started The Cuckoo Restaurant in Olinda.
Karin was part of The Cuckoo ever since, until Covid forced its closure in 2020.
The restaurant has served more than seven million customers in its 62 year history. It has been an iconic tourist attraction, providing employment to many local families and supporting numerous local small businesses.
“Karin has provided exemplary leadership over the course of its history, setting industry standards for excellence in customer service and hospitality,” Andrei said.
When the Covid pandemic arrived, the restaurant was forced to close indefinitely.
“It seems fitting that The Cuckoo and Karin have gone together,” Andrei said.
He said his mum believed that giving generously was the secret to an affluent life.
“The value of free meals given away by Karin at The Cuckoo over the years would amount to millions of dollars. And yet, life provided everything she desired. A nice home, a good car, a happy family.”
But Andrei said his mum faced hardship, too.
Karin was interned by the Russians after WWII, but escaped to West Germany, on her own, when she was 14 years old. She eventually found work with Bayer as a lab assistant, before taking the opportunity to relocate to Australia, courtesy of the Australian government. Arriving with only 20 cents to her name, she quickly found work and started rebuilding her life.
When she met Willi things improved a lot. He was the executive chef at Chevron, then Melbourne’s leading 5-star hotel.
He was also a famous TV personality, with a prime-time cooking show on Channel 7 and a radio show on 3XY.
“Together they purchased the Quamby Cafe, a 25 seat tearoom in Olinda, and leveraged Willi’s fame into The Cuckoo, with a new concept in food called “Smorgasbord,” Andrei said.
“It was an immediate hit and the restaurant grew as demand increased.”
In February 1976 Willi disappeared and has never been found. Andrei said police now believe he met with foul play and are treating his case as a homicide.
Despite the enormous loss and grief, Andrei said Karin soldiered on in The Cuckoo with the support of her brother, Horst, and a loyal crew of dedicated employees.
She eventually remarried, Hubert Fink, a chef and colleague of Willi who she had known for many years. Unfortunately Hubert passed away a few years later from cancer.
Karin continued alone once again, supported by her Christian faith and the enduring popularity of The Cuckoo.
Andrei said her last day of work was the last day The Cuckoo traded.
“The Covid restrictions prohibited buffets and severely limited the seating capacity, making the restaurant unviable,” he said.
Andrei said his mum died in her sleep from complications caused by Parkinson’s and dementia.
He said Karin did not want a funeral but the family had decided to hold a wake at The Cuckoo on September 18 at 2pm.
“This will be the final party at The Cuckoo, for both Karin and the restaurant,” he said.
“The property has been sold and will be relaunched with a new identity and theme in the coming months.
“The family believe Karin would have welcomed the opportunity to say farewell to all her friends, acquaintances and former employees and The Cuckoo would have been her preferred venue for it.”
The event is open to anyone who knew Karin. Light refreshments will be provided.