Dining review: Sunset Sabi opens in Manly
Sunset Sabi is set to take Manly by storm with its creative take on Japanese food.
THE sun hasn’t even set and this place is buzzing.
Open quietly and they’ll come.
They certainly have. Sunset Sabi has only been open a month and it has already attracted quite a following.
It’s taken us a couple of goes to get a table. Weekend walk-ups? Forget it.
But — unlike many restaurants — Sunset Sabi does take bookings. It’s currently doing two dinner sittings, weekend lunches are coming and the bar is open from 4pm for cocktails and snacks.
Related: No wheat, plenty of treats
Sunset Sabi is the latest venture from the Chica Bonita boys. Luke Miller and Sean Miller share the same last name and a love of food. Their popular central Manly restaurant-cum-bar Chica Bonita has been doing Mexican for three and a half years and now they can add Japanese street food with a twist to their repertoire.
These boys don’t do boring. The menu is fun, interesting and different. American Sean Miller and Ian King have mashed up flavours and upped the fun factor mixing traditional Japanese with California and Mexico.
The journey started with the right venue. The team looked at number of local venues including a smash repairs before settling on the former Pony Room.
It is now resplendent in its east meets west makeover. Think Tokyo street scene with its exposed brick and neon signs behind the bar. Lots of wood softens the industrial edges. Local carpenter James Pratt helped with the fitout and the funky geometric grey tiles are locally sourced.
Sunset Sabi has a brilliant ace up its sleeve. Tucked away at one end of the bar is the sushi bar, a first for the suburb, Sean Miller says.
Five of the best seats in the house are directly in front of it and what’s even better, we are seated on two of them.
With a black Asahi beer in hand, watching sushi chefs Genki and Marco at work is tabletop theatre, as they prepare a constant supply of nigiri and an elaborate array of sushi rolls.
Dank roll is eight pieces of rice-wrapped crab, salmon and avocado. It’s finished with a blast from Genki’s trusty blowtorch which caramelises the sweet mayo topping. Great to watch, but it is on the bland side.
The same can’t be said for the Kingfish in Mexico, this is a wow of flavours. It’s a sophisticated combo of raw fish, coriander, sabi kewpie mayo. Each slice is topped with avocado, pineapple candy puree and jalapeño.
Okonomiyaki, or traditional vegie pancakes, get that Sunset Sabi twist. They’re not going to win Instagram fans for looks, but they’re a smack between the eyes for flavour — thanks to the homemade ponzu kimchi, pickled shiitake mushrooms, bonito flakes, a pungent ‘bulldog’ barbecue sauce and pickled ginger.
Japanese tacos — topped with barbecued beef, daikon, ginger sabi kewpie mayo, and the kitchen’s own kimchi pay more than lip service to Chica Bonita. Chica bonito, a pun with a punch. This entree is an inventive and delicious mix of ginger and lime poached bonito (or seasonal market fish) and a wasabi and romaine guacamole.
The drinks menu is spiked with Japanese brews from 180ml of sake to share, black Asahi, which is served sub zero, and umeshu, a plum wine which peps up several cocktails.
Don’t leave before ordering the sweet burger. These sweet potato doughnuts are little buns filled with Japanese whisky cream, matcha white chocolate and fresh strawberries.
Sunset Sabi is lively, the music thumps and it doesn’t take itself too seriously. It pushes boundaries — Manly’s hottest restaurant has arrived.
Twitter: @beverley_hudec
SUNSET SABI
26/28 Pittwater Rd, Manly,
9977 7461
Open: Tuesday to Saturday for dinner, 6pm and 8pm. Bar snacks from 4pm.
Go for: Chica bonito,$15, sweet potato burger, $11
Vibe: Returning Japanese
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