Dining review: Mexicano has a small taqueria in Mona Vale on Sydney’s northern beaches called MX
MX is a mini Mexicano. This Mona Vale hole-in-the-wall taqueria also pumps out great tacos, authentic nachos and cocktails.
Narrabeen, Mona Vale, Bali.
Bali might be a little ambitious for a quick night out, so it’s off to Mona Vale without the passports for a taste of Mexican street food.
MX is a little hole-in-the-wall taqueria. But don’t expect Tex Mex. here. The boys behind this cosy little eatery are Sean and Kieron Prenter, and chef Sean isn’t just any old blow-in gringo.
He comes with an impeccable culinary pedigree. He worked at Rockpool in the glory days of the early ’90s and fell in love with Mexican food when he went travelling.
Mexicano came along in 2011 and put Mexican street food and Narrabeen firmly on the Sydney map.
MX, their tiny taqueria, keeps the Mexican wave rolling with shared plates, tacos and chocolate margaritas for dessert. Walk-ins are always encouraged and, in the evenings, takeaway tacos fly out the door.
Kieron Prenter says it’s small and intimate. At a push, MX seats a very cosy 25. If you want a table for two, head for the hallway overlooking the bar.
The night gets even cosier with a $7 glass of house red and the warming glow of a salty, sweet and hot jalapeño margarita and a trio of small sharing plates.
Chilaquiles roja — or proper nachos — doesn’t groan under an overload of sour cream, cheese and refired beans piled high on cheap corn chips. Instead these flavours are subtle. Quality corn chips are laced with red salsa, crema (the Mexican version of crème fraîche), guacamole and farm cheese. The mound of shredded radish adds crunch and interest.
Punchy flavours come from the grilled chorizo with red pepper chimmichurri and chipotle beef.
Chimichangas — brown crispy parcels tied up with string — are dipped into chilli and cucumber vinegar.
MX’s tacos are terrific. They’re homemade (chef Sean imported a taco-making machine to make the job easier) and what a difference it makes. The pork belly taco features crispy meat, pickled red onion, thin sliced jalapeño, crema and herbs, and that soft and slightly flaky dough. Delish.
It’s rocketing up the popularity ladder and giving the battered fish, slaw, chipotle mayo and pineapple taco a run for its money.
If neither appeals, then there’s also a chipotle braised beef version, or one filled with anchiote chicken thigh, or grilled chorizo. MX has gluten-free options on request.
Make it to dessert and there’s chocolate, salted caramel and ancho chilli truffles, classic churros or a chocolate margarita.
If you want to try something different, you’ll have to head to Bali where the Prenters teamed up with Pete Zuttion to open Barbacoa, a Latin American eatery in November 2013.
Twitter: @beverley_hudec
MX
Shop 4a/1 Waratah St, Mona Vale
Phone: 9970 8975. Bookings only for eight or more.
Open: Six days. Lunch from 11.30am-2.30pm; dinner, from 5.30pm. Takeaway available. Closed Sundays.
Go for; crispy pork belly or fish tacos, two for $12; chipotle beef chimichangas, $12; jalapeño margarita, $16
Vibe: streets ahead
BYO: No
Bottom line: $80 for two with drinks
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