Review: Papi Chulo brings a taste of South America to Sydney’s northern beaches
Kick-start your South American culinary adventure in Manly at Merivale’s trendy eatery, Papi Chulo.
Manly
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Papi Chulo is Merivale’s stylish Manly show pony.
Until Easter when The Newport opened, the waterfront restaurant was Justin Hemmes’ only northern beaches venue.
It’s also the place to people watch. Guys watch the girls who watch the guys who watch waitstaff who watch the guys and the girls … except of course when you aren’t in the cool club. Being a mum doesn’t quite cut it.
It’s Wednesday night and Who’s Your Papi? the hugely popular midweek deal is in full swing.
It’s a balmy August night and it’s so unseasonally warm that the windows are open and the mood’s lively.
Spring is coming but not our drinks. Two glasses of Terrazas reserve Malbec finally arrive as we finish the entree.
The food hits the spot. Papi Chulo sings and dances through the Deep South of the States, heads through Mexico and ends in South America, thanks to the snappily-executed and vibrant mashup of food. There’s barbecue, smoked dishes, salads, rotisserie options and even smattering of Asian touches.
The beauty of this special is that it shows some of the best options with a choice of mains, desserts and drinks.
Who’s Your Papi? kicks off with the restaurant’s signature pea guacamole with tortilla chips. The combo of half-half avocado and peas, lime juice, garlic, jalapeño and salt, works. There’s even a few cheeky frozen peas on top. President Obama is a pea and guac man, and Mr President, so are we.
Main course options include a Mennonite farmer sausage with bread rolls and barbecue sauce and mussels with smoked garlic aioli and French fries.
But there’s also the eight- hour slow-cooked wagyu brisket, or pulled Berkshire pork. And like the sausage, both come with bread rolls and barbecue sauce.
If that’s too heavy, then the standout dish is the Malaysian chicken platter.
The chicken is painted in coconut cream, marinated in spices, and then cooked on the rotisserie. It comes with three tortilla wraps, lettuce and a lip-smarting, ayam curry sauce.
It’s not tizzied up. Just interesting food with a fun presentation on a banana leaf. It shouts ‘eat me’. We do. There are absolutely no complaints here.
Main courses also come with curly fries and the Vietnamese slaw. Again, simple ingredients — red cabbage, Chinese cabbage, coriander and mint and a tangy nuoc cham dressing — burst with flavour.
Coffee profiterole with hazelnut crunch wraps up an enjoyable meal. Given the price, $45 a head with a glass of vino and setting, and I reckon it’s well worth it, as there’s no need to add on other bits which push up the price.
Who’s Your Papi? is here to stay. Well, at least for the foreseeable future.
Essentials
Papi Chulo, Manly Wharf, East Esp, Manly
Phone: 9240 3000
Open: Current hours are Mon to Wed, 5:30- 10pm; Thurs to Sat, noon to 10:30pm; Sun, noon to 9pm
Go for: Who’s Your Papi three-course special, Tuesday to Thursday, $45 a head with a glass of wine, beer or cocktail; $10 burger specials on Mondays
Vibe: Laid-back and lovely
Bottom line: $90 for two, plus credit card surcharge
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