Dining review: Stella Blu opens in Glenrose Shopping Centre
Stella Blu brings pizzas, pasta and much more to Glenrose Village Shopping Centre
Manly
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Stella Blu is now a double act.
Old Stella is the beachfront Italian in Dee Why. New Stella is a casual Italian cum pizzeria in the recently-opened Glenrose Shopping Centre.
Shopping centre eateries have gone up-market. And this one isn’t just a food court with quick-fix foodie stops. Instead there’s a row of rather stylish eateries including Ajmer’s Indian, Momoko, Thai Kitchen, The New Civic and the previously-mentioned Italian.
Sit inside one of these and you’d never know that the bright lights of supermarket behemoth Woolies is only next door. And for theatre buffs, Glen Street is right across the road.
Before Stella Blu opened last month, restaurateur Nick Salerno said it would have a contemporary feel. It’s much prettier and more stylish than his prosaic words. There’s definitely an air of Hamptons-comes-to-the-suburbs with tiled floors, exposed brick, marble bench tops and Parisian bistro chairs and tables.
Even the display of giant cans of tomatoes adds a little fun to the decor.
Salerno has played it safe with the family-friendly food, introducing favourites including mamma and nonna’s homemade saffron arancini, or the meatballs with tomato sauce, (it sounds better in Italian) as well as meaty mains like scotch fillet and six-hour slow roasted lamb shoulder.
But there are a few differences too. Pizzas are new. If you’re looking for a few pizza-making tips to take home, customers can see directly into the open kitchen and watch them being made.
Pizzas come in two sizes and they have a variety of toppings everyone loves. I’m not a fan of pizza with pineapple and ham, but kids love them. If your tastes are more sophisticated, go more up-market and order tartufo. This pizza comes topped with mozzarella, roman sausage, porcini and truffle paste.
Not a truffle paste fan, then there’s the meatiest of meat lovers, and the pure and simple margarita.
Ingredients are top quality. They have nowhere to hide on our choice — a $22 medium-sized prosciutto pizza. It comes with a generous pile of rocket, mozzarella, shaved parmigiano and prosciutto di Parma. It is a pizza bianca with no tomato, but the base, particularly one half of it, is dry and disappointing.
Insalata Caprese drizzled with Hunter Valley first pressed olive oil and seasoned with sea salt isn’t the best choice with cold under-ripe tomatoes, trendy burrata, fresh basil leaves. This is a really is a dish that’s best in summer.
But the ricotta, basil and tomatoes turn homemade gnocchi into one of those classic hearty dishes. Sprinkled with parmigiano and matched with a glass of sangiovese, it’s delicious — redolent of summer.
Make it to dessert and pizza pops up again — this time folded over and filled with Nutella and served with vanilla gelato and either banana or strawberries. Night owls may prefer a coffee. Stella Blu serves Gabriel. Add a scoop of gelato to an espresso. The sweetness counterbalances the bitterness — it’s simple, irresistible and so Italian.
Twitter: @beverley_hudec
ESSENTIALS
Stella Blu Italian and Pizzeria, 56-58 Glen St, Glenrose Village Shopping Centre, Belrose
Phone: 9972 7933
Open: Lunch, noon-3pm; dinner from 5pm, daily
Go for: Ricotta gnocchi, $28; pizzas from $11; pappardelle with prawns, $34
Coffee: Gabriel
BYO: Currently no charge, awaiting liquor licence, then $4 a head
Vibe: Bella stella
Bottom line: $108.20 for two
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