Dining review: Tapas at Jah Bar in Dee Why

Jah Bar channels just a little bit of Barcelona with Spanish tapas and sangria.

Bring on Barcelona ... Jah Bar has tapas and sangria

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TIME for tapas? If the answer is yes, then Colin Bond’s beachy bar blends the best of his original Manly venue with just a little bit of Barcelona.

OK, Jah Bar doesn’t quite have the little skewered snacks or pinxtos that are found in the laneways of Spain’s second largest city. Instead it channels Aussie-Spanish philosophy of seasonal bar food.

Spanish means tapas, paella and jugs of sangria. Jah Bar has all three.

Jah Bar’s outdoor tables and seating.

There’s paella, which is always popular. Jah Bar has a seafood version brimming with sustainable fish and shellfish and a meaty one made with pork and chorizo. Go on Thursdays and it’s $27 with a half jug of sangria. Bookings are a must.

Jah Bar moved in when the Greek bar, Crazy Donkey went last year. The wood-fired oven stayed, but the soft and cosy feel of the interior comes from plenty of timber. The wood has been sourced from the scaffolding on the Harbour Bridge, Bond said.

There’s also cocktails to lift the spirits. Jalapeño margarita blends grapefruit with jalapeño chillies, triple sec and Don Amado mescal; while pepino ginebra brings together another classic pairing, gin and cucumber.

Fish tacos are always popular.

The house gin is a Sydney gin mixed with cucumber, sugar syrup and lime juice. Bring on summer. If gin’s not your thing, then a half jug of sangria is so easy to drink. On weekdays it’s $12 and there’s a choice of either white or red sangria.

The red one fills two wine glasses very generously and the slightly boozy pieces of apple, orange and lemon are a bonus. Made with spiced sugar syrup, brandy and red wine, it’s not at all sweet and fizzy, like some are, and it slips down very nicely with nibbles.

If you’re looking for a big feed, then the nachos is huge, but for something lighter, the fried cauliflower salad is absolutely delicious.

It comes with toasted almonds, wilted spinach, plenty of tart lemon and the secret ingredient, ajo blanco, which lifts the dish.

Fish tacos are a Jah Bar bestseller. The hero is a piquant hiramasa kingfish cured in tequila, lime and rock salt to set the protein.

Kingfish ceviche at Jah Bar.

They’re served in a crisp taco shell with lime onion jam and avocado salsa.

In contrast, the pulled pork tacos are messy and made with slow-cooked house smoked shoulder and served with quince and shaved apple salad.

Turn down the thumping music and bring on Barcelona — Jah Bar is fun for an easy lunch or a night out.

Twitter: @beverley_hudec

Essentials

Where: Jah Bar, 1 /23 The Strand, Dee Why

Phone: [phone]

Open: Seven days, from noon, Monday to Friday; from 8am to late on weekends

Go for: $10 tapas happy hour from noon-7pm, from Wednesday to Friday and all day on Monday and Tuesday. Selections include kingfish ceviche, sardines on toast and patatas bravas

Vibe: Spanish steps

Bottom line: $52 for two with a half jug of sangria