I spent 6 days in Cambodia and discovered an underrated gem

An underrated gem "like Vietnam 15 years ago":  This traveller says his one regret about his Cambodia trip is that he didn't visit sooner.

After spending my 20s and early 30s exploring Europe, I’m kicking myself for not checking out Cambodia sooner.

Wedged between Thailand and Vietnam, it’s long been on my bucket-list, but equally, a place I never knew much about.

Come with no expectations – it’s the best way to dive in and you’ll find a place of wonder, adventure, history, and excellent food.

Many tell me the country feels much like Vietnam 15 years ago. Busy but not overbearing, and full of surprises, Cambodia is an incredible treasure trove.

DAY 1: Afternoon

Arriving at the Bavet border crossing from Vietnam is a breeze; just remember your visa. Officials are strict and you’re definitely getting turned away if things aren’t sorted. Thankfully, I arrive at the capital, Phnom Penh, with no hiccups. Tuktuk is the best way to soak it all up and for around $US3 I see all the major landmarks, including the statue of founding grandmother Lady Penh, and the French-inspired central marketplace where haggling is a sport.

Evening

There are great photo ops on Sihanouk Boulevard at the Independence Monument, and the NagaWorld strip feels like a mini Vegas. But I’m not gambling today; I’m hungry. I head past the Royal Palace and wind up in the Daun Penh district where I devour spring rolls and mango stir-fried chicken, washed down with a local beer, before calling it a night.

The Independence Monument and Sihanouk Boulevard, Phnom Penh.

DAY 2: Morning

Things start on a heavier note at the Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum, a former high school that was used as a prison during the Khmer Rouge era. Here, an estimated 20,000 people were imprisoned under Pol Pot’s regime. I hear first-hand about the horrific interrogations and executions at S21 from survivor Chung Mey, whose story is deeply moving. I next visit the Choeung Ek killing fields just outside the city, where mass graves and hundreds of skulls are the remnants of the country’s dark past.

Afternoon

The afternoon is much lighter: amok pork for lunch, coffee at a streetside café, and visits to Wat Phnom, a Buddhist temple, and the Royal Palace. I end the day with a sunset cruise on the Mekong, followed by another delicious dinner.

The Royal Palace in Phnom Penh.

DAY 3: Morning

Departing early, I head west to Cambodia’s real beating heart, the Kampong Chhnang province, famed for its handmade pottery. I meet a family who have been shaping clay into cooking pots for five generations. The work, all done meticulously by hand, is impressive to watch.

Afternoon

Continuing on for several more hours, I arrive at Battambang, Cambodia’s third-largest city, where the French influence is everywhere, from its large boulevards and Parisian lamp posts to the street vendors selling all kinds of baguettes and pastries.

Evening

One of Battambang’s biggest tourist drawcards is the bat cave. Go there at sunset to see millions of bats flying out into the night. Dinner is a feast hosted by local man Mr Sambath. His family prepare regional delicacies such as black pepper beef with pineapple, fried eggplant, Khmer curry, and banana chicken salad, all made with locally sourced ingredients. I even manage to save a little room for a dessert of sticky rice.

The statue of Buddha in the Bat Cave at Battambang.

DAY 4: Morning

After my morning coffee by the hotel pool, I tour Battambang’s outskirts on a bicycle. Along the way, happy locals smile and wave as I pedal along the Sangke River, stopping to see family-run businesses who’ve mastered the art of rice paper rolls, banana leather, and rice wine across generations. I’m told that the cobra wine makes your spirit stronger, so I naturally have a shot.

Afternoon

Travelling by minibus, I leave Battambang’s rural charm behind, arriving several hours later to the much busier Siem Reap, the filming location for 2001 Hollywood blockbuster Lara Croft: Tomb Raider. You can even buy a Lara Croft cocktail on the bustling Pub Street at the Red Piano Bar, said to be one of star Angelina Jolie’s favourite watering holes when cameras were rolling.

Troy Nankervis exploring Battambang in a tuktuk.

DAY 5: Morning

It’s a 4am wake-up call to visit Angkor Wat, a 12th-century Hindu temple complex that has to be seen to be believed. The early start is certainly worth it. I’m front and centre with a clear view of a spectacular sunrise over the ancient site, built with the help of 5000 elephants.

Afternoon

The adventure continues at Bayon, aka the Temple of Smiling Faces, where wall carvings detail life in Khmer 1000 years ago. It’s then off to the jaw-dropping Ta Prohm or Jungle Temple, a highlight of the trip, where roots and vines have spent centuries pushing their way through the stone blocks.

Evening

My day ends watching a performance of Sokha at the Phare Circus, based on the true-life story of a child survivor of the Khmer Rouge – a powerful example of Cambodia using art to heal a difficult past.

The Angkor Wat temple complex at Siem Reap.

DAY 6: Morning

Temple-hopping continues at Pre Rup, a 10th-century Hindu site once used as a royal crematorium. A brief stint of food poisoning isn’t enough to ruin the day but here’s a pro tip: don’t try the tap water in Cambodia.

Afternoon

Next, I wander through Preah Dak Village where street vendors roast BBQ pig, frog and fish. Still queasy, I opt for the traditional cupcakes, made fresh with coconut cream and rice flour, and sold for just 25 cents. Absolutely delicious.

Later, I visit Chong Kneas, a floating village home to 500 on Tonle Sap Lake, also known as the Great Lake of Cambodia.

Evening

My Cambodian visit ends with amok fish curry at a local restaurant and a wander around the Siem Reap night markets before another early morning start and a very long 10-hour bus ride to Bangkok.

Siem Reap city centre by night.

Tips for getting around Cambodia

• Intrepid’s Cambodian Traveller tour takes you to major sites across nine days and eight nights, starting in Ho Chi Minh City. You can combine this experience with other Intrepid tours such as the Best of Vietnam & Cambodia and the South East Asia Loop.
• I travelled via private minibus, however public bus and train services, and domestic flights operate across Cambodia.
• Taxi, tuktuk or walking are great options for exploring each place. Ensure you negotiate a day rate with drivers.
• Take a mix of US dollars and Cambodian riel.
• Jetstar, Qantas and Vietnam Airlines all have daily flights to Ho Chi Minh City, where this tour starts.
• Australian travellers to Vietnam and Cambodia need to organise a tourist visa before arrival.

The author was a guest of Intrepid. 

Originally published as I spent 6 days in Cambodia and discovered an underrated gem