I spent 48 hours in Paris with my kids, this is the ultimate itinerary

Paris, as they say, is always a good idea - yes, even when you're travelling with kids. Here's what not to miss if you only have a couple of days to see the French capital with your family.

It’s not just a city for lovers – Paris has lots to offer families travelling with kids and none of them involve Disneyland. From the Tuileries to the Eiffel Tower, here’s what’s guaranteed to be a big hit with your little ones as they were with my two daughters, both under 11.

 

DAY 1: Morning

Having arrived via Eurostar the evening before, we wake up in our room in Hôtel Rochechouart – a hip boutique beauty close to Montmartre. Other than chains, it can be hard to find good family accommodation among Parisian hotels as rooms are often compact, but Hôtel Rochechouart has adjoining rooms which combine to make a surprisingly spacious area.

We set off on foot to discover the city – it’s my daughters’ first time in Paris and walking is by far the best way to get your bearings and a real feel of its charm. We pass the Palais Garnier and Place Vendôme before arriving at the Tuileries Garden, where they throw themselves onto the trampolines and have a spin on the carousel by the Louvre. This proves a hit because it features an ostrich. Across the River Seine in Jardin du Luxembourg you can also enjoy pony rides.

Jardin des Tuileries (Tuileries Garden) near the Louvre in Paris.

Lunchtime

You can take your pick of cafés and bistros in Paris, with their ubiquitous outdoor chairs and tables all year round. It’s one of the city’s main attractions and despite the frankly bad coffee (order a café crème, never a latte), you can enjoy cheese-based snacks such as croque monsieurs everywhere. My kids like the quirky historic tea room and its mini-museum display in English bookshop Smith & Son, on Rue de Rivoli opposite the Tuileries, where we also snap up a Jellycat croissant plushie – another highlight.

One of the best ways to view the Eiffel Tower is from a boat on the River Seine.

Afternoon

You can’t come to Paris for the first time and not see its sights, among which the Eiffel Tower, a boat trip on the Seine and the Louvre rank in the top three. Younger kids will probably enjoy the boat ride more than the lines at the Louvre, so we plump for that. Since we’re visiting off-season in February, there are fewer people waiting to hop on the boats at Port de la Bourdonnais, at the base of the Eiffel Tower. There are all kinds of cruises, including those with fine-dining, but families are best choosing the one-hour Bateaux Parisiens, which take you past everything you want to see, including the newly reopened Notre-Dame Cathedral.

Paris' newly restored Notre-Dame cathedral viewed across the Seine.

Evening

Paris’s most famous attraction is, of course, the Eiffel Tower and so this was a must-do for all of us. Although you can just turn up, to avoid queues I had pre-booked timed tickets and opted for an evening slot. I can’t recommend this more highly – we are on the tower when it lights up and begins its sparkling display and it is absolutely magical to gaze out at the twinkling skyline. My daughters love the rickety lifts and standing at the very top and it proves to be an unforgettable experience for all of us.

The Eiffel Tower and Paris skyline at sunset.

DAY 2: Morning

When travelling with children in Paris, my advice is to avoid over-scheduling. Book one or two activities a day maximum, and if anyone gets tired, make another café stop. I had asked my daughters what they wanted to do before we set off and both declared, “shopping”. So, as Paris is synonymous with fashion, we start at the top end and take a tour around La Galerie Dior – the fashion museum on the side of the designer brand’s flagship store on Avenue Montaigne. It’s great value – kids under 10 are free and under-26s are €10. My mini-fashionistas fall in love with the frocks on display, plus the ballerina shoes in the Baby Dior shop next door. 

The stunning glass-domed roof of Galeries Lafayette.

Lunchtime

From the designer stores of the 8th arrondissement, we head to the Champs-Élysées and Arc de Triomphe before wandering to department store Galeries Lafayette where we enjoy lunch in Café Coutume, which overlooks the ornate atrium and famous Art Nouveau glass-domed roof – worth a special trip just to see. If you time your visit right you can also catch live fashion shows, or join a macaron-making class. Nearby, tweens will love the multiple Sephoras and chains like Zara – which has the chicest childrenswear I’ve ever seen.

The Montmartre funiculaire and Sacre Coeur Basilica, one of Paris' major landmarks.

Afternoon

Next, the kids – and Mum – get to play dress-up, thanks to a fabulous free service most tourists don’t know exists, in neighbouring up-market department store Printemps. It has a large personal shopping lounge, with private rooms, where you can sit with coffee and pâtisseries and peruse a rail of clothes selected for your taste.

My love for croissants is clearly the reason I can’t fit in the jeans, but my daughters adore their selections and have the best time. There’s no obligation to buy, but we end up splashing out on two outfits from French brands Jacadi and Petit Bateau.

The rest of the afternoon and evening is spent exploring Montmartre and Sacré-Coeur, sitting high atop the hill. Young children will love taking the funiculaire up to the basilica, even though I make mine climb up the steps, to join the crowd enjoying the view and the many love padlocks chained along the balustrades.

The view over Paris is beautiful, as are the surrounding winding streets. They are full of wonderful macaron and sweet shops, such as historic À la Mère de Famille, which first opened in 1761, plus great places to stop and eat. We end our trip in a bistro, sipping Oranginas and an Aperol Spritz.

How to get to Paris from Australia

Multiple airlines fly to Paris from Australia, including Emirates, Singapore Airlines and Air France. Qantas has a direct flight from Perth. 

Where to stay in Paris with kids

Hôtel Rochechouart, in the Pigalle district, is a Belle-Époque boutique property from Orso Hotels. With 106 rooms, restaurant and rooftop bar, family rooms can be created by two adjoining rooms. It’s in a vibrant district, great for restaurants. Rooms start at around $340 a night. 

Hotel Rochechouart features interconnecting family rooms.

Top tips for visiting Paris with kids

Bon appétit

Be warned: the French don’t much go in for children’s menus – little ones are expected to appreciate their food with as sophisticated a palette as adults. But there’s usually a plain-ish pasta or crêpe on the menu and you can ask if they’ll make a simple dish.

Perfect pâtisseries

There are chocolatiers, macaron shops and pâtisseries everywhere and locals treat their sweets with reverence. For fancy tea and pastries, head to Le Valentin in the beautiful arcade Galerie Vivienne. levalentin.paris

Originally published as I spent 48 hours in Paris with my kids, this is the ultimate itinerary