I took my kids to Paris, here's what I learnt

Paris is a romantic city, the City Of Love, but when you're travelling with the in-laws and three kids, you need to select your itinerary carefully. 

W hen I think about Paris, certain images spring to mind. Young couples strolling hand-in-hand along cobblestone streets. Picnics on the banks of the Seine, with stinky cheese washed down by a crisp white against a backdrop of the (unburnt) Notre Dame. Sipping Champagne under the stripy awnings of a bistro while people flow around the streets. That was not to be our experience of the City of Love.

My husband and I were travelling in winter with our three kids (and the in-laws) – it was going to be a very different type of holiday.

So we took a different approach, based on family rather than amour. What followed was an experiment in getting the kids engaged, involved and interested, with enough rules to keep it manageable and the flexibility to make it work.

The kids’ long list of must-sees was dominated by famous landmarks, including the Eiffel Tower, Montmartre and the Arc de Triomphe.

Novel transport options

A big part of Paris’s charm is in strolling around, admiring the beauty of the buildings, the chicness of the shops, and the Frenchness of the people. However, we were there in January, known for drizzle, biting winds and short days, and although our kids (eight, 11 and 13) are troupers, wandering would turn to whinging from even the best-behaved children.

We needed fun sightseeing options, and Vedettes du Pont Neuf’s one-hour cruise along the Seine was the perfect length. From the open top deck we saw many of Paris’s most famous landmarks, giving the kids an overview of the city. Meanwhile, the English commentary gave both historical background and an introduction to French accents.

The narrow, winding streets of Paris are delightful; navigating them can be a nightmare. There are buses, cars, motorbikes, bikes, scooters and pedestrians, all travelling on the wrong side. But as soon as my teenager saw an e-scooter, there was a new top of the must-do list. Luckily there are safe(r) ways to do it: our convoy of scooters followed the wide bike path along the Seine from near our hotel to the Eiffel Tower, taking it slowly, appreciating the grand old buildings and bridges.

We visited the open square of Place du Tertre to watch artists sketch their waiting subjects.

The famous sights

The kids’ long list of must-sees was dominated by famous landmarks – the Eiffel Tower, the Arc de Triomphe, Montmartre – all places offering magnificent views and a great sense of the city’s layout. They also have interesting backstories that give insights into the country’s history, culture and place in the world. The challenge is in doing the research, then tailoring the conversation for fun and interest.

My kids were intrigued by the bohemian history of Montmartre, so along with the steep steps, views and gorgeous white domes of Sacré-Coeur, we visited the open square of Place du Tertre to watch artists sketch their waiting subjects. (There were only a few braving the steady rain.) As we walked, we talked about how this was once a village on the outskirts of Paris which attracted artists (van Gogh and Picasso among them) with its cheap rent, nightlife and lax morals.

A dinner at the traditional Chez Paul bistro turned into an astounding display of eating.

Focus on the food

Before we hit France, we hyped the kids up about the food: baguettes, pastries, cheese, waffles, hot chocolates (and cold ones!), macarons, fries and more. Then we sprinkled them through our trip, making treats into a type of treasure hunt, combined with the chance to rest and defrost. The promise of a visit to Paris’s best pâtisserie/chocolate shop/café got us through many slumps, and the kids’ tastes got more adventurous as we went.

A dinner at the traditional Chez Paul bistro (lots of wood and checkered tablecloths, like something out of Amélie) turned into an astounding display of eating. My kids (even the fussy eight-year-old) sampled snails, frogs’ legs, duck, steak tartare and more, making it through hours and multiple courses.

The Cirque d’Hiver (Winter Circus) is old-school, crowd-pleasing entertainment and one of the oldest circuses in Europe.

Big tops and fairy floss

There were strong men and trapeze acts, clowns and unicycles, a full orchestra, and enough sequins to start a Lincraft shop. The Cirque d’Hiver (Winter Circus) is old-school, crowd-pleasing entertainment and one of the oldest circuses in Europe.

The building is amazing on its own – 20-sided, elaborately decorated and 170 years old. Then the lights go down and the band starts up. Performers use giant seesaws as human catapults, buff men tumble down bright lengths of silk, a leotard-clad man does a headstand on his brother’s head and is carried around the arena. A family winner.

Then we headed off to 38 Riv, a packed basement jazz bar, for a couple of hours of funk.

Once the kids are in bed

We stayed in Saint-Germain-des-Prés, a vibrant area full of art, quirky shops, cafés and bistros close to the Seine. Winter nights are long – it’s dark by 4.30pm – so on a couple of evenings we put the kids to bed, then headed out nearby. Freddy’s was first, a long, narrow tapas bar where an open kitchen pumps out things like razor clams in garlic butter, and amazing zucchini fritters. Busy and buzzing, it was the perfect way to remember what travelling was like sans enfants.

Japanese may seem like an odd choice for Paris, but we were drawn by the reviews and nightly queues at Kodawari Ramen. We were led past booths and hanging lanterns to the big group table upstairs where we chose from a selection of ramen. It was the best I’ve had, washed down with sake served in traditional masu (wooden boxes).

Then we headed off to 38 Riv, a packed basement jazz bar, for a couple of hours of funk. Because even in a trip catering to the kids, you’ve got to make space for the grown-ups.

The writer’s travels were assisted by the Paris Tourist Office – Paris je t’aime.

Originally published as I took my kids to Paris, here's what I learnt