New bakery is ‘best form of torture’

Pure torture of the best possible kind. That’s perhaps the best way to explain sitting at the new King St Bakery in Bowen Hills.

Salmon gravalax dish. Pic Annette Dew

Pure torture of the best possible kind. That’s perhaps the best way to explain sitting at the new King St Bakery in Bowen Hills.

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The elegant boulangerie-cum-cafe with its rich timber ceiling, rustic, red-toned brick walls and polished wooden floors floods you with the smells of warm bread baking, fresh coffee brewing, and cabinets and shelves heaving with tempting sweet and savoury treats.

The salmon gravalax dish at King St Bakery. Picture: Annette Dew.

Glossy, golden palmiers, cocoa-dusted brownies, sticky, cream-filled eclairs, hearty pies with tanned, lacquered pastry crusts... Not buying far more than what you could eat is the ultimate test of willpower - and one I failed miserably at.

The bakery along the popular King St precinct is the handiwork of Shannon Kellam and Clare Wallace from acclaimed French eatery Montrachet - just a baguette toss down the road.

When they relocated the beloved fine diner from Paddington to its new location in December 2017, they set up a small boulangerie next door headed by Kellam’s long-time mentee and chef Tara Bain. But from the outset the wares of the tiny bakery were so in demand they were fast outgrowing the site. So when the nearby position formerly occupied by The Pine Kitchen came up, Kellam jumped at it - turning the existing boulangerie into a private dining room, and giving the bakery its own identity thanks to the addition of a casual eatery.

Waiter and Barista Stella Chagas at King St Bakery. Pic Annette Dew

The breakfast and lunch offering share many of the same dishes and is unmistakably French inspired with a few twists. Think lemon myrtle-scented Greek yoghurt with poached peaches and granola or sauteed mushrooms with sheep’s milk cheese on toasted brioche at brekky, while at lunch it could be a steak sandwich with horseradish cream, Caesar salad or spaghetti tossed with mushrooms, herbs and butter.

The oeuf cocotte - or classic French baked eggs ($16.50) - is intensely salty from chorizo, while the almost fluffy eggs float on top delivering rich runny yolked centres, perfect for dipping the accompanying subtly sweet and crusty white baguette into.

Meanwhile the salmon gravlax ($21) uses what is considered the “wagyu” of salmon - New Zealand’s Ora king - sliced finely so it melts on the tongue with a fluorescent cauliflower pickle for bite, luscious dollop of creme fraiche, halved boiled egg and a slice of the bakery’s sensational rye bread, toasted and glimmering with melted butter. It’s simple fair done well.

A brief but well-conceived wine list is also in play with most available by the glass, plus three beers.

As well there’s black and white coffee served so strong you could stand your spoon in it, a velvety chai latte, iced coffees, juice from Noah’s and a refreshing iced tea.

But, of course, a visit to King St Bakery wouldn’t be complete without a little sweet pastry to take home.

The oeuf cocotte dish at King St Bakery. Picture: Annette Dew.

One of the friendly and well-drilled waitstaff - many of whom are French - convinces me in her charming Gallic accent that I must try the vanilla custard cruffin ($8.50) - a croissant-muffin hybrid unique to the store boasting a glossy, dual-toned layered pastry crust encasing liquidy crème patissiere flecked with vanilla bean. Judging by how quickly we polish it off, it’s a solid recommendation.

For a taste of France without leaving the country, King St Bakery will more than satisfy.

KING ST BAKERY

20 King St, Bowen Hills

3180 3980

kingstbakery.com.au

Open Tues-Sat breakfast, Lunch Tues-Fri

VERDICT

Food 7.5

Service 8

Ambience 8

Value 7.5

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