Restaurant review: Montrachet in Bowen Hills

A RISKY decision to relocate this renowned Brisbane restaurant has paid off in style thanks to the efforts and attention to detail of its owners, and the artistry of a head chef who works wonders with his sauces.

THERE'S a reason I need to go to the gym at least five times a week. It’s sauces like those made by Shannon Kellam.

The chef-patron of acclaimed Brisbane French restaurant Montrachet tackles a classic French sauce like a painter – layering flavours together as if they were brushstrokes, building upon each one with such finesse and delicacy the result is a complex and nuanced work of art that needs to be relished.

Montrachet restaurant at Bowen Hills still has all the charm and sophistication of the original restaurant.. Picture: Mark Cranitch.

The latte-hued broth pooling around an entree of melting pumpkin gnocchi, opaque bites of Moreton Bay bug, broad beans and slivers of radish ($28.50) is one such example. So good that if this was served at home, the bowl would be licked clean.

Also exemplary is the subtly flavoured bisque around the signature crabmeat and gruyere cheese souffle ($25) that reinforces the seafood flavour without overwhelming the dish. This is an entree that elicits groans of unadulterated pleasure.
It also helps ensure the restaurant in its new home along King St in Bowen Hills is just as popular as its Paddington incarnation.

The Moreton Bay bug with butternut squash gnocchi at Montrachet, Bowen Hills

The choice to move out of the Given Terrace site into a bigger premises near the Ekka showgrounds just before Christmas was a risky move for Kellam and wife and front of house manager Clare Wallace.

But the pair has painstakingly (and expensively) recreated all the charm and sophistication of the original restaurant.

Just as polished as the fit-out are the staff. Though it takes our waitress a little time to warm up, professionalism and efficiency never falter and meals arrive at good pace.

The humble peasant dish of duck cassoulet ($45) is elevated to fine dining status with the achingly tender game bird atop a bean mix season with cured pork pieces and rounds of Toulouse sausage.

The chocolat de passion dessert at Montrachet, Bowen Hills

But the fish pie ($49.50) is rather sadly lacking in the snapper and king prawns as promised. It makes finding a piece of seafood in the ceramic dish topped with golden pastry like casting a line in the ocean with no bait. It’s even more disappointing given the price.

Desserts, like mains and entrees, walk a traditional path – creme brulee, chocolate marquise – and then what is described as “Shannon’s award-winning dessert” ($20) – a rich, sweet and sour layered creation of Grand Marnier brulee, passionfruit curd and chocolate hazelnut praline mousse with a sphere of sorbet atop disks of strawberry.

There are also fabulous French cheeses, well-suited to a dessert wine from the entirely French list which offers accessible by-the-glass options.

Montrachet is a special occasion restaurant and as such, both the front and back of house team will ensure a dining experience to remember.

MONTRACHET

Address 1/30 King St, Bowen Hills

Phone [phone]

Web montrachet.com.au

Open Lunch and dinner Tues-Fri, Saturday dinner only

VERDICT

Food 9

Service 8.5

Ambience 9

Value 7

OVERALL 8.5