’So good you know it’s bad for you’: Is this Qld’s best mashed potato?

A new steak and seafood restaurant has fired up on the Gold Coast and delivers a familiar taste

Lars Bar & Grill, Mermaid Beach.

If imitation is the sincerest form of flattery, then Brisbane restaurateur Simon Gloftis must be feeling pretty chuffed right now.

The owner of much-hyped Fortitude Valley eateries Hellenika, Sushi Room and Sunshine has just witnessed an almost replica version of the menu of his popular steakhouse SK Steak & Oyster appear on the Gold Coast, helmed by none other than his former executive chef Lars Kollrepp.

The beef tartare at Lars Bar & Grill, Mermaid Beach.

Kollrepp worked alongside Gloftis for the past decade, and in August went out on his own with his eponymous venue Lars Bar & Grill at the new Oxley precinct in Mermaid Beach.

While most bar and grill restaurants follow in a similar vein, the resemblance between the food at Lars and SK is striking.

The two venues boast eight dishes, from baked scallops and raw kingfish in white soy to tuna with capers and crumbed King George whiting, that read the same across the snacks, entrees and mains sections of the menus; while they both share the same steak supplier: Stockyard.

The sides also tell a similar story with plenty of double-ups across the eateries.

Back in August, Gloftis gave Kollrepp a very public endorsement, announcing on Instagram that he was proud of his young chef and wished him the best.

Alla vodka orecchiette at Lars Bar & Grill, Mermaid Beach.

Perhaps that means the emulation is not a concern, nevertheless, it is certainly remarkable.

What is different between the two venues, however, is the experience.

After a warm and professional welcome at Lars, we’re then handed over to a waiter with
all the excitement of a labrador puppy with a new toy.

While his intentions are well-founded, he makes copious, ill-timed and rather tactless visits to our table, becoming more of a hindrance than a help.

He knows it too – apologising numerous times for being “annoying” but somehow not being able to stop himself from coming over.

Other staff members are less suffocating, but are deficient in their knowledge of the menu.

Rump steak at Lars Bar & Grill, Mermaid Beach.

Much of the food also seems to lack the finesse of SK.

Underseasoning is a consistent issue across three of our four entrees and mains, with the classic steak tartare ($36) needing a greater hit of sodium as well as more punch from vinegary cornichons; the orecchiette alla vodka ($32) also screams for salt, while the pasta itself is more undercooked than al dente and largely stuck together, meaning some serious mastication is necessary.

Our choice of a 250g black angus rump ($40) from the 10 steaks on offer, including two 9+ marble score Kiwami wagyu options, could also do with a little more salt to make its perfectly medium-rare flesh sing.

Not to be faulted, however, is the pan-fried snapper ($48).

Snapper with burnt butter sauce and a side of mash potato at Lars Bar & Grill, Mermaid Beach.

With a burnt butter, caper and lemon sauce, the delicate fish, which is served on its own is, unquestionably, the dish of the day.

It’s made even better by a side of mash potato ($14) that tastes so good you know it’s bad for you.

Meanwhile, for a lighter, more refreshing side, the cucumber and dill salad with just the tiniest hint of chilli will satisfy.

All three are a pleasant match with a glass of Louis Moreau Les 8 chablis from the wine list which cleverly traverses new and old world options; though it does have a rather hefty mark-up at $32 a glass, and surprisingly comes to the table pre-poured.

Cucumber salad at Lars Bar & Grill, Mermaid Beach.

Alternatively, there is a decent collection of signature cocktails available, as well as six beers, and a handful of non-alcoholic options.

With a warm and inviting fit-out, Lars Bar & Grill certainly has the potential to shine, it’s just not there yet.

Lars Bar & Grill

1/2217 Gold Coast Hwy, Mermaid Beach

0480 605 215

larsbarandgrill.com.au

Open

Wed from 5.30pm late; Thu-Sat lunch from noon and dinner from 5.30pm; Sun lunch from noon A new steak and seafood restaurant has fired up on the Gold Coast and delivers a familiar taste

Must try dish

Pan fried snapper

Verdict

Food 3

Service 3

Ambience 4

Value 3.5

Overall 3.5