‘Charry, smoky exterior’: The $65 Angus eye fillet that is cooked to perfection

One of the first restaurants to open at the city’s new casino complex delivers on steak, seafood and views.

Loads of seafood and 11 steak choices? Views over South Bank and the twisting brown snake of the Brisbane River? You must be at Black Hide Steak and Seafood by Gambaro perched on the Terrace level of the huge, new, futuristic-looking Star casino complex on the edge of the CBD. The attractive, 250-seat Queen’s Wharf restaurant with its stunning outlook is one of the first to open in the precinct and is adjacent to the new Neville Bonner footbridge to South Bank, with a steady stream of pedestrians even on a week night.

The large, open, light and bright interior has a modern, slightly Mediterranean vibe courtesy of three statement olive trees, harmonious neutral tones and lashings of blonde timber. Comfort is key, with upholstered chairs and soft mint banquettes and cushions for extra back support. There’s also plenty of space between tables and, unusually these days, it’s not too noisy despite being busy, with couples and groups operating happily side by side.

An open kitchen runs along the back, with fresh seafood on ice at one end. At the entrance there’s a roomy bar and lounge area; out the front an appealing covered outdoor dining space is adorned with pot plants, while the toilets are outside the restaurant, a short walk from the front door, off the main public thoroughfare.

Black Hide Steak and Seafood restaurant at Queens Wharf. Picture: David Kelly

The large menu designed for broad appeal brings together the seafood and steak strands of the pioneering Brisbane hospitality family’s businesses.

Diners might start with a splash with caviar bumps and a glass of Taittinger Champagne or perhaps tuck into oysters. Otherwise, more prosaic snack options include house-made focaccia, olives, cured meats or a miso glazed beef skewer ($16), which is actually two short skewers of tender meat in a rich gravy.

Entrees have a meaty theme with short ribs, meatballs and steak tartare but that’s tempered by the addition of tuna tataki, kingfish crudo, scallops, white anchovies and capsicum with focaccia or a prawn cocktail ($42).

Black Hide Steak and Seafood at Queens Wharf. Picture: David Kelly

We share the prawns but there’s nothing cocktailish about the presentation, with four large, plump crustaceans huddled in a row atop a bed of shredded lettuce on a dinner plate, with a pot of marie rose sauce and a lemon wedge for company.

The steaks are from Stanbroke Beef, including five Angus options with a marble score of 3-plus, four wagyu with a marble score 5-plus and one 9-plus. All come with a choice of sauce, mustards and horseradish.

Black Hide Steak and Seafood’s Angus Marble Score 3+ Sirloin 350g. Picture: David Kelly

We opt for the cheapest, a 200g Angus eye fillet ($65) that arrives medium rare as requested, the meat very soft and tender with a charry, smoky exterior.

Shoestring chips ($14) are straight from the fryer, hot, crisp winners, with alternate side options including roasted pumpkin with pepitas and garlic yoghurt or Greek salad.

Otherwise there’s a vegetarian pasta, spatchcock and the seafood, which runs to a cold platter, lobster (grilled or poached with lemon herb and garlic butter/mornay/or with linguine), squid, bugs and prawns.

Grilled Mooloolaba prawns, parsley and garlic butter, lemon. Picture: David Kelly

Fish of the day is coral trout ($65), with the decent-sized portion’s skin crunchy, the delicately flavoured flesh moist and nicely enhanced by a moat of an assertive piperade (capsicum and tomato stew), with a blob of salsa verde for extra spark.

The global wine list begins with glasses from $15 as well as Coravin, moves on to bottles from $60-$65 and builds to vintage Champagnes and big hitters such as Penfolds Grange .

Desserts play it very safe with lemon meringue tart or chocolate fondant and while tropical kataifi ($18) sounds odd, the marriage of passionfruit and mango mousse, coconut sorbet and fruit in a crisp Middle Eastern pastry nest makes for a fine finale to a pleasant dinner made all the better by attentive service.

Black Hide Steak and Seafood at Queens Wharf. Picture: David Kelly

Black Hide Steak and Seafood by Gambaro

The Terrace, Level 4

The Star Brisbane

blackhidequeenswharf.com.au

Open

Tue-Sun lunch and dinner

Must try

Angus eye fillet

Verdict

Food

4 stars

Service

4 stars

Ambience

4.5 stars

Value

3.5 stars

Overall

4/5 stars

delicious.com.au/eatout