Otto’s $70 lobster pasta: Is it worth the price?

It’s got glamour, views, a terrific wine list and serious cooking but does the experience live up to the outlay?

A first twirled forkful of lemon butter-coated spaghettini topped with chunks of champagne lobster is utterly delicious. Pimped up with garlic, chilli, white wine and bottarga, cured fish roe, it’s pure indulgence.

We’re at Otto Ristorante at South Bank, so close to the river that we are virtually sitting among the mangroves in one of the city’s most enticing restaurant locations, with the floor-to-ceiling glass doors peeled back and the frontage entirely open.

There are heaters dotted around between the tables but you could either take the view that it is still quite chilly or that this is pandemic friendly fresh air dining at its best.

Previously lodged in the CBD, high up in a Queen St tower with river glimpses, Otto moved earlier this year to the digs previously occupied by Stokehouse Q.

Stunning views: Otto restaurant at South Bank

The new site seems to suit it much better, the location a more attention-grabbing stage for a business that includes a roomy bar with stunning city views, white-tablecloth dining, an expansive wine list, and a wing of well-drilled, almost formal wait staff.

All of this comes at a cost, with the lobster pasta $50 for an entree, $70 a main.

Our other starter of soft brisket chunks teamed with gnocchi, a touch of gremolata and roasted onion ($35/$55), is also reasonably generously sized and a wintery pleasure, and almost as appealing despite its more grounded ingredients.

Beyond pasta, gnocchi and risotto, which are all also available as main courses, entrees ($32-$35) include raw seafood of the day, beef carpaccio and Hervey Bay scallops with pumpkin and black pudding.

Beautiful thing: Otto champagne lobster pasta

Paying this amount, expectations are high.

Main courses begin at $55 for spatchcock, lamb or the Kurobata pork cutlet with brussels sprouts, shiitake mushrooms, roasted onion, cime di rapa and mustard sauce for example and it’s a solid dish, as is the day’s market fish, swordfish, with black mussels hidden among a tomatoey stew and blobs of green olive and caper salsa ($60).

Unfortunately the glasses of wine we’d ordered to accompany the dishes arrive as we are almost finished. When sitting by the balaustrading with the cold filtering in, we have no choice but to eat up.

When our waitress detects a lukewarm response to her detailed questioning about our enjoyment of the dishes, she removes the cost of the wine from the bill. But the fact is, the moment has been lost.

We don’t bother with sides but the choice ranges from a cos lettuce salad ($14) to a tomato-based caprese salad ($22).

Intricate entrees: Scallops with black pudding

The wine list is an extensive journey around the globe, including a deep-dive into Italian reds, and a by-the-glass selection that begins at a reasonable $13 and offers plenty of interest beyond the usual suspects, supplemented by a strong Coravin selection.

Dessert runs to an affogato and three choices including tiramisu and our option of a shared confection of Valhrona caramel and honeycomb, thin apple slices and creme fraiche ($22). It’s very nicely presented, uncomplicated and a sweet finish without being too rich.

When our plate is cleared the waiter asks if we’d like the bill.

After answering in the affirmative, we never see him again.

We are chatting away but it is half an hour before we receive a visit from our original waitress, although to be fair we aren’t demanding attention.

The dining room was quite full and there’s clearly demand for quality food in a beautiful location.

But at $260 for two entrees, two main courses, one dessert and two glasses of wine, you expect the experience to be as smooth as silk.

Otto Ristorante

Food 4 stars

Ambience 4.5 stars

Service 2.5 stars

Value 3 stars

Overall 4 stars

Must try

Champagne lobster with spaghettini

Sidon St, South Bank, South Brisbane

Open for lunch 12pm to 3pm Fri-Sun; dinner Wed-Sun 5.30-10pm. Otto Osteria bar Wed-Sun 12pm-late

ottoristorante.com.au/brisbane/