Paddington newcomer Elementi heaven for pizza lovers

A newcomer in one of the city’s favourite dining strips serves up an array of Italian food but it’s the pizza that demands attention.

We tried other items on the menu but a visit to Elementi in inner-Brisbane’s Paddington turns out to be all about the pizza.

On a cold winter’s night with the front of the restaurant open to elements we choose to sit at the bench in front of the gaping maw of the pizza oven, where coals glow quietly readying for a night of serious activity.

The chef, from Sicily he says, picks up shining domes of dough, and is soon vigorously spinning one in the air before placing it on the bench, assembling the toppings and shovelling it into the oven’s hungry mouth.

Theatre is often part of the creation of this Italian staple which, despite its ubiquity, is delivered in such a wide and varying manner.

Here, rooted in the traditions of the Italian south, the base is slightly softer in the middle yet is strong enough to hold its shape.

Made with the help of the chef’s long-time sourdough starter, it delivers an appealing lightness and chewiness and a bubbled crust with distinctive charred leopard spots.

We opt for the tomato-based salamino ($23) draped with thin slices of salami and a scattering of mushroom and mozzarella, which is elegantly spare and very satisfying.

All about the pizza: Elementi at Paddington’s margherita. Picture: Mark Cranitch.

Other tomato-based choices are the margherita; tiger prawns and one with pork sausage and olive. And options for the four bianca bases run to a pancetta, potato and rosemary; mushroom and artichoke; tuna and semi-sundried tomatoes; and air-dried beef and goats cheese.

The oven also is put to use making other savoury indulgences such as bulging calzone, filled flat focaccia and filled pizza panini.

Elementi has been open a few months, a partnership between a trio who met while working at Teneriffe powerhouse Beccofino: Mauricio Zarate, front of house, sous chef Pedro Sanson and pizza chef Stefano Spataro.

Elementi at Paddington. Picture: Mark Cranitch.

It’s taken over the space formerly occupied by Arrosto on Given Terrace in a section of the street that seems to have a fresh lease of life, with the latest addition being new wine bar Noir, on the site previously that of fashion boutique Maiocchi.

When we pop in on our way to dinner every seat is taken in the minimalist space.

Elementi is also pared back, with polished concrete floors, bare tables, a brick feature wall and roomy bar space providing a rather too muted backdrop to the action.

The wait staff ratio is high so we’re given plenty of attention and the not overly extensive wine list nevertheless offers a generous 17 wines by the glass from an Italian-strong selection.

The menu is similarly straightforward. Beyond the pizza oven, starters include arancini ($12) three globes of molten mozzarella-centred rice accessorised with porcini and tomato sugo, truffle-stuffed olives, a board of cured meats, eggplant parmigiana, beef carpaccio and grilled prawns.

Arancini at Elementi at Paddington. Picture: Mark Cranitch.

From four pastas we opt for the Twistie-like slim twirls of imported trofie ($25.50) mixed with the chopped stalk and leaves of a winter green (cime di rapa which translates as turnip tops), stracciatella, chilli, anchovies, garlic, breadcrumbs. It’s simple and punchy.

Secondi comes in the form of a changing meat and fish of the day, and this night it’s rib fillet with potatoes and mackerel with caponata.

Wheels of a nutty chocolate log with a creamy berry ice cream ($11) is an unremarkable sweet conclusion, with the other choices carrot cake or deconstructed cannoli in three flavours.

Elementi’s pizza is a standout in a smooth operation that seems destined to make its mark in a suburb that has been crying out for more dining options.

ELEMENTI

Food 3.5 stars

Ambience 3 stars

Service 3.5

Value 3.5

OVERALL 3.5 stars

257 Given Terrace, Paddington

Open Mon, Wed, Thur from 5-9pm; Fri 5pm-late; Sat 12pm-late; Sun 12-9pm, closed Tue

elementirestaurant.com.au