‘Not able to speak freely’: Meals are generous, but diners sit too close

Although this new Brisbane restaurant wasn’t busy the night we were there, we were seated cheek to jowl with several other duos, writes our reviewer. It took the gloss off the evening.

The mushroom tarte tatin is the size of a small pizza and is piled with caramelised onion with a hint of truffle, pepped up with shaved parmesan and topped with a forest of salad greens and herbs and a large blob of crème fraiche.

This super-sized pastry is what we’ve chosen as one of our entrees at a beautifully appointed new restaurant at the University of Queensland, St Lucia, in Brisbane’s west.

The 90-seat Patina at Alumni Court, so close to the sandstone splendour of Great Court that the sound of students lamenting as they shuffle by to lectures could likely be heard in a quiet moment, opened in February this year, with keen prices and courses large enough to feed a hungry undergraduate.

Mushroom tarte tatin at Patina at Alumni Court. Picture: Judit Losh

The glass-walled restaurant is the sibling to Patina at Customs House in inner-Brisbane’s Queen St and the copper dome of the historic City building is referenced through brass and copper fittings. The heritage-listed sandstone Radon laboratory is incorporated at one end and the elegant, architecturally stylish interior is resplendent with tan leather banquettes, wide, comfortable leather chairs, grey carpets and views through floor-to-ceiling glass out to the surrounding trees and lawn furnished with comfortable outdoor seating.

With a private dining room, catering, takeaway coffee and breakfast, high tea and a bar in addition to the restaurant, this is a multipurpose venue operating for its key weekday constituency and forgoing weekends.

Although the restaurant isn’t busy the night we visit, we’re seated along the banquette, cheek by jowl with several other duos, between women having to speak in careful undertones to keep their conversation private and an opinionated PhD student venting about her supervisor to her quiet companion. Not being able to speak freely rather takes the gloss off the evening.

The modern Australian menu, with premium produce at its heart, doesn’t specify entrees and mains but works its way from smaller items through to large, from oysters or steamed duck buns through the aforementioned tarte ($24) which could be an entree or main, ham hock terrine or perhaps Ora King salmon tartare to South Burnett pork belly or Cape Grim beef short rib or a Darling Downs eye fillet.

Octopus at Patina at Alumni Court. Picture: Judit Losh

Our other starter has a tentacle of tender Fremantle octopus ($24) as its focus, curling around a large portion of smooth pureed smoked potato, red-pepper-based romesco sauce, whorls of pureed avocado, a trio of cherry tomatoes and a confetti of black olive pieces.

A very decent-sized fillet of Coral Coast barramundi ($32) is nicely cooked and crispy skinned and nestles on a bed of cavolo nero and broad beans, and on a pond of more puree, this time sweet corn, flecked with small pieces of chorizo and drizzled with chive oil. Another main of potato gnocchi ($32) sees a fair quantity of the plump dumplings mixed with shiitake mushrooms, zucchini, peas, with lettuce leaves on top and pangrattato.

The drinks list runs to all manner of beers, cocktails and spirits and just over 40 wines from around the world, supplemented by a 17-strong by-the-glass offering with several of the selections priced at $9. Service is attentive and pleasant without being over-engaging.

Banana tarte tatin at Patina at Alumni Court. Picture: Judit Losh

Banana tarte tatin ($17) with dehydrated coconut “rocks” and dark chocolate sorbet appeals most from the list that runs to crème brulee, white chocolate panna cotta, espresso martini soufflé, and it’s a reasonable version.

Members of the public heading out to the restaurant should perhaps check a map in advance and expect to park at one of the university’s parking stations as there are no specially allocated spaces nor any information from the website or the staff as to what might be the best option.

However, a bit of a warm-up walk might be just the ticket to prepare for the generously portioned meals.

For more reviews visit delicious.com.au

PATINA AT ALUMNI COURT

Cooper Rd, Building 16, University of Queensland, St Lucia

3346 6995

Patinaalumnicourt.
com.au

Open

Takeaway coffee and breakfast Mon-Fri from 7am; lunch from noon, Mon-Fri; dinner from 5.30pm Wed-Fri;
bar from 11.30am Mon-Fri; high tea Tue-Fri 11.30am or 2pm

Must try

Coral Coast barramundi

Verdict

Food 3 stars

Service 3.5 stars

Ambience 4 stars

Value 4 stars

Overall 3.5/5 stars