The must-try bug tostadas at new Latin eatery

Bug tostadas, capsicum stuffed with pulled pork ... it’s a culinary adventure at a new Latin American eatery in Brisbane’s inner-west.

Alison Walsh

@AlisonAWalsh

2 min read

April 7, 2022 - 4:00PM

QWeekend

Pilgrim at Petrie Terrace, Brisbane City. Photograph: David Kelly

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Our timing is off all night. First we inadvertently book a restaurant near Suncorp Stadium just before a rugby game is about to kick-off and have to battle our way up Caxton St against a tidal wave of fans and then, as we are leaving Pilgrim, a new Latin American eatery, a band arrives and a waitress tells us we’re going to miss some brilliant old-school salsa music.

We are at Pilgrim in The Barracks on Petrie Terrace which, at the end of last year, took over the space previously occupied by Spanish eatery Peasant and is rocking a post-colonial crumbling building vibe in the heritage-listed, one-time police depot. It’s owned by Brazil-born Gustavo and Andre Goncalves, who opened Fogata Bar Restaurant in James St in Fortitude Valley in 2016 before choosing not to renew their lease as the pandemic hit in 2020.

Pilgrim in Petrie Terrace. Photograph: David Kelly

The makeover of the space is appealing with low lights, walls with sections of exposed brick and tiles and distressed paint, wooden floors, a mirror-backed bar that runs the width of the room and a large, attractive courtyard fanned by foliage. There’s a fair amount of space in front of the bar, which is where the band swings into action after 9pm on Saturdays.

Considerable effort has gone into the scene-setting drinks list with creative cocktails, Peruvian and Chilean pisco sours, three versions of Margaritas, white or red sangria by the glass or carafe, and a wine list with multiple offerings from Uruguay, Chile and Argentina joining a couple of Australian and New Zealanders and flights of various spirits including pisco, mezcal, rum and cachaca.

The Moreton Bay bug tostadas at Pilgrim. Photograph: David Kelly

Six ($55pp) and eight ($70pp)-course banquets top the menu followed by small and large share plates, with the offering a loose collation and interpretation of Latin American cuisine rather than being from a particular country. Starters could be the South American favourite ceviche, here Hiramasa kingfish cured in lime juice, red onion, coriander, or roasted jalapeños stuffed with cream cheese and wrapped in prosciutto or chargrilled calamari with chipotle mayo and the alarming sounding concrete squid ink meringue. We opt for two sliders of Brazilian-style cheese bread stuffed with deep-fried soft shell crab, rocket and truffle aioli ($19), which are hearty and flavoursome but hardly lo-cal, while tostadas topped with poached Moreton Bay bug meat mixed with chipotle mayo, lemongrass and red chilli ($23) appeal in their contrasting lightness.

The capsicum stuffed with pulled pork. Photograph: David Kelly

Larger share plates include rump cap with chorizo, chicken heart and thigh skewers, or Brazilian shrimp chowder. Charred whole capsicum ($29) stuffed with pulled pork and quinoa, beetroot puree, roasted bell peppers and shaved parsnip chips for textural contrast is a riot of colour on the plate, with the flavours complementary. The feijoada, slow-cooked hearty black bean stew ($32), is a robust mix of rump cap chunks, pork belly, chorizo and bacon, with sides of white rice, toasted cassava flour and tomato salsa.

Through all this service is smiling if inexperienced. We’re asked several times how we are or if we’d like a drink but dirty plates are left on the table and it takes a while for the food to come as staff are stretched and the place is heaving. Dessert isn’t given too much attention with the options of churros ($14), coconut flan ($13) with caramelised prunes and hazelnut pave ($14). After a long wait, we change our churro order to takeaway and they prove to be standard-issue crunchy and dusted with cinnamon sugar with dulce de leche for dipping.

Pilgrim also operates a coffee window in the mornings and, at lunch, diners will discover a different, smaller menu including several types of tacos, pulled pork nachos, and grilled eggplant salad. This is a restaurant with a strong sense of identity and an out-of-the-ordinary offering, just keep an eye out for what’s on at Suncorp if you want hassle-free parking.