Is Za Za Ta the hottest new vegetarian restaurant in Brisbane?

Even devout carnivores will be impressed by this new restaurant and bar in Brisbane’s trendy inner-north where vegetables are the star.

Anooska Tucker-Evans

3 min read

September 24, 2020 - 4:00PM

QWeekend

Don't miss out on the headlines from QWeekend. Followed categories will be added to My News.

Australians may be embracing veganism in record numbers and meat-free Mondays might be bigger than ever as Aussies try to reduce their intake of animal proteins; but for a hotel restaurant to go completely vegetarian takes some seriously big falafels.

But that’s just what Fortitude Valley’s Za Za Ta at the base of the Ovolo hotel has done.

Howard Smith Wharves battles to stay afloat amid COVID restrictions

Logan mates open burger place with a difference

After closing when coronavirus restrictions first kicked in, the restaurant recently re-emerged from an extended hibernation with executive chef Roy Ner keeping its Middle Eastern theme but ditching the meat.

The Conservatory dining space at Za Za Ta, Fortitude Valley.

The result is a lengthy and diverse share-style menu of mezze where the humble vegetable is the hero, while the traditional protein element is played by, perhaps, cheese, legumes or even eggs.

Inspired by the vibrant and multicultural Tel Aviv dining scene and giving distinct nods to the Mediterranean, the dishes are forged from a mix of traditional and modern technique stretching from a simple hummus crowned with a 63 degree egg to Turkish Manti lentil and mushroom dumplings.

It’s a menu even devout carnivores can get behind, with the highly knowledgeable and charming, COVID-safe, mask-clad staff on hand to explain the unfamiliar and sell the unforgettable.

Pumpkin dumplings at Za Za Ta, Fortitude Valley.

Pumpkin dumplings ($23) arrive as the Middle Eastern version of pumpkin tortellini with burnt butter sauce and pine nuts and they’re absolutely delicious; while silverbeet and feta borek fingers ($18) are like the love child of Greek spanakopita and sausage rolls, with the spinach and cheese filling wrapped in golden, sesame-flecked pastry ready to be dipped into a bowl of runny 63 degree poached egg and diced fresh tomato.

The eggplant h’raime is one of two eggplant dishes on the all-vegetarian menu.

There are two eggplant dishes on the menu – one with sweet soft bullhorn peppers ($14), the other with a rich, braised tomato sauce ($23)- and both are fantastic; meltingly soft and oh so gently humming with that charry smoke that makes Middle Eastern food sing.

Cauliflower shawarma ($25) is pleasant without being a standout, so instead consider the falafels ($14). Speckled with sesame seeds and kept light and crumbly, make sure to slide them like Tom Cruise in Risky Business through the accompanying tahini sauce.

The crumbly sesame falafels.

Bread is a must and deciding between the soft, uber buttery, spiralled Yemenite version accompanied by creamy goat’s curd, or the crisp-crusted, supple-centred, roti-like murtabak with pickled veg and a meaty shawarma made from mushrooms is harder than choosing between your children. So if you‘re dining as a group, order both.

Sarah Scott takes over Fortitude Valley’s Joy restaurant after splitting with husband

The concern about eating vegetarian for my meat-loving dining companion was going home hungry, but four dishes between two is more than satisfying, while five plates will have you unbuckling your belt and asking one of those switched-on staff members (who recognise me at 40 paces) to book you a room upstairs to sleep off the food coma.

Murtabak bread with fable shawarma, pickled veg and curd.

In fact, a hotel room isn’t a bad idea if you’re keen to explore the Middle Eastern-inspired cocktail list. Incorporating ingredients such as cardamom, pomegranate and walnut bitters, the range moves from the deliciously sour, kumquat-laced Hotel Tel Aviv to the sweet dessert-style baklava martini. There’s also a comprehensive G&T list, plus cocktails to share. While excitingly for wine buffs, the smart, food-centric offering lines up quality Australian labels alongside hard to find drops from the likes of Lebanon, Turkey, Morocco and Israel.

Aether Brewing in Northgate reveals expansion plans

Za Za Ta is a heaving and buzzy restaurant, and whether you’re sitting in the conservatory with its stunning botanical print wallpaper, the wine-bordered dining room with views of the open kitchen, the traditional lounge-y and warm harem or the dark and moody front bar, it’s a place that will transport you to another part of the world. And with overseas travel currently off limits, it may just be the perfect vacation in our own backyard.