Review of Italian restaurant Mosconi in Fortitude Valley

Smiling faces turn to scowls, eyes roll at dizzying speeds and if looks could kill, you’d be on the floor. It’s amazing the response this one small thing can elicit at some restaurants. Thankfully, this inner Brisbane bistro is an exception.

Entering a nice restaurant with a baby is like walking onto a plane with a baby.

Smiling faces turn to scowls, the eye rolls become almost dizzying, and if looks could kill, you and your offspring would be assassinated faster than the antagonist’s henchmen in a Bond film.

But not at new Italian Mosconi in Fortitude Valley.

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Taking over the former Leona Edmiston store next to King Arthur cafe on Arthur St, the beautifully adorned eatery and wine bar is the work of brothers Mark and Daniel Rotolone, behind New Farm’s longstanding Vine restaurant.

The modern-meets-classic Euro fit-out at new Italian Mosconi in Fortitude Valley. Picture: Sarah Marshall

And as my friend arrives with her 5½-month-old, there’s no grimaces, glares or glowers, just a warm welcome by the staff and the offer to move chairs around to accommodate the pram.

That's not to say that this restaurant is suddenly the ultimate spot to host mothers’ groups and daddy daycares - especially given the brick walls and domed high ceiling bounce around the sounds of a baby’s screams like a pinball machine - but it’s a place where warm, generous and genuine hospitality is on show.

In fact, while children will be more than obliged, Mosconi is quite the adult’s playground.

The stunning, sun-lit room oozes classic Euro stylings with a modern twist. A curved, walnut-hued timber bar is the centrepiece downstairs, wrapped by bentwood stools and marble and timber topped tables. While upstairs, a gorgeous loft area featuring tan banquette seating and more of those classic bentwood chairs glows with natural light. It’s the perfect date night venue or a relaxed place for friends to catch up over a few wines.

And vino is actually the star attraction here, with Vine sommelier Emer Landgraf coming over to create a runsheet that teams interesting Italian drops designed to support the food with wines from around the world, which allow for an exploration of flavour and styles at every price point.

The Fremantle octopus at Mosconi, Fortitude Valley, Picture: Sarah Marshall

A small collection of classic cocktails is also in play alongside some interesting non-alcoholic options.

As for the food, ex-Il Centro, Brisbane chef Catherine Anders has come on board, delivering a mix of small and large plates - though the small are actually beyond generous, and the large plates would happily work as a main course.

Expect everything from the runny-centred Italian cheese burrata atop confit leek to a 300g sirloin with taleggio croquette and wild mushrooms.

Zucchini flowers ($18) come battered and deep-fried with the golden shell bursting open to reveal a creamy risotto centre offset by smoked tomatoes and a silken garlic and anchovy sauce, while quail ($24) is expertly cooked and well-seasoned crowning slivers of beetroot, dots of gorgonzola and crumbles of walnut.

Fremantle octopus ($25) is a little overdone, but the cannellini bean puree and zesty salmoriglio - a dressing of lemon, herbs and olive oil - is the perfect foil to the charriness of the squid.

The deconstructed lemon meringue pie with fresh fig. Picture: Sarah Marshall

Duck ragu ($37) is served on housemade pipe rigate pasta that could have done with two minutes longer in the water, but the meaty sauce is deeply flavoured and rich with red wine.

The highlight though is a deconstructed lemon meringue pie ($14).

While the urge to pull things apart to their individual components can often seem unnecessary and fussy, here it works, with crumbly short bread pieces meeting tart curd and marshmallow-like meringue, blackened by a blowtorch. Sensational.

Prices are a little on the high side for what’s essentially a suburban bistro, but with engaging service, a tempting wine list and an elegant space to enjoy it all in, Mosconi is worth a visit.

MOSCONI

164B Arthur St, Fortitude Valley

3151 1898

mosconi.com.au

Open lunch, dinner Wed-Sun

VERDICT

Food 7.5

Service 9

Ambience 8

Value 7

OVERALL SCORE 8