‘Margaritas are the star attraction’: Mexican restaurant Frida Sol

With rustic Mexican decor and a menu designed to transition from laid-back lunch to party fun, Frida Sol is the latest edition to the Gold Coast’s booming dining scene. READ THE REVIEW.

There are few restaurateurs in the state who do a fit-out like Morgan Walsh.

The hospitality gun behind Gold Coast eateries Milkman’s Daughter, Poke Poke and Fu Fu is the queen of creating personality in a space.

From the overtly cheeky to the dark and sensual, each venue boldly boasts its own identity — but all with Walsh’s unique quirk.

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It’s not hard to see why then that Ryan Renwick, the owner of new casual Mexican Frida Sol in Palm Beach, wanted her expertise for designing his latest venture and sister venue to Bonita Bonita.

Frida Sol, Palm Beach. Picture: Nigel Hallett

Taking over the second-storey space formerly occupied by Modern Australian restaurant 8th Ave Terrace, Walsh has employed a palette of khaki and white to transform the indoor-outdoor decked area into a little slice of Tulum.

Grass umbrellas stretch out of old metal barrels turned into bar tables, religious Mexican trinkets and flora lines nooks in one wall, while opposite a white stone garden bed has been rustically forged baring a spike of cacti and a portrait of the glamorous, dark-haired Frida herself. And for that signature tongue-in-cheek touch, neon lights read: One tequila, two tequila, three tequila, floor.

Four cheese and jalapeño quesadilla Picture: Nigel Hallett

The menu is designed to transition from laid-back lunch to party fun, with snacks like chile con queso and empanadas, sitting alongside tacos, burritos and share plates including nachos and quesadillas.

Our guacamole ($10) could do with a crack more salt and extra squeeze of lime, but the bubbly golden corn chips make it impossible to stop going back for more.

Tacos come with your choice of flour or corn tortilla or a lettuce leaf for those watching their carb intake.

We try the pescado number ($9) in a fan of cos for something different, and although it is insanely impractical to eat, with my fingers and arms wearing most of the accompanying mango crema and queso fresco cheese, the lettuce adds a pleasant element of freshness to the deep-fried fish.

We opt for a more sensible flour tortilla for the cauliflower taco ($9), with the vegetable deep-fried and fritter-like, topped with pickled onion for bite, rocket, guacamole and cilantro crema. It’s the winner of the two, though just a little heavy for my liking.

While the quatro queso and jalapeño quesadilla ($16) plays it slightly too safe on the heat front.

Fish taco and Bonita margarita. Picture: Nigel Hallett

Where this place really shines, though, is with the drinks.

Carrying on the Mexican theme, margaritas are the star attraction with half-a-dozen varieties sitting alongside an inventive, signature cocktail list led by gin and vodka-based blends. Beer from Gold Coast brewery Black Hops is on tap, while other local labels are available by the can or bottle, as are Mexican cerveza. The wine list is a tight collection dominated by Spanish and Australian offerings at a very friendly price point, but it's the Bonita margarita you have to try.

Featuring tequila, agave and cucumber juice with a chipotle salt rim, it’s the perfect balance of spicy-sour pleasure.

Making it even better is the candied jalapeños on top. Known as “cowboy candy” in the US, these are a treat done so well they could easily be introduced as a snack on their own.

The outdoor area of Frida Sol. Picture: Nigel Hallett

Service is friendly and attentive enough, but a little clumsy and unrefined. Pick that up and this place is sure to be a hit.

FRIDA SOL

Address 1176 Gold Coast Hwy, Palm Beach

Phone [phone]

Web fridasol.com.au

Open Lunch Sat-Sun, Dinner daily

VERDICT

Food 7

Service 6.5

Ambience 9

Value 7.5