Meet the sexy new Italian restaurant taking over Il Centro

A modern and sexy new restaurant is taking over Brisbane’s famous Il Centro site promising the best meatballs in the city.

It was the home of Brisbane dining institution Il Centro for almost 30 years, now the well-known Eagle Street Pier site is set to welcome a sexy new Italian eatery this week.

COPPA will open on Thursday in the iconic riverfront location promising a casual, modern offering inspired by the Amalfi coast.

The work of Brisbane hospitality gurus The Happy Fat Group (Red Hook, ex-Public), the restaurant will actually be a 2.0 version of their original COPPA venue, which had been operating at nearby Creek St for the past six years, only closing last year during COVID lockdowns.

Tom Sanceau, owner of restaurant COPPA, which will open in the former Il Centro space at Eagle Street Pier. Picture: Steve Pohlner

“When I walked into an empty Il Centro I had to take it,” said co-owner Tom Sanceau.

“The views, the space, the lights, the feel of the building – there’s not many restaurants you get that much good energy from; and Il Centro was an institution. You think about how many people have had good times in the space so I wanted to continue that legacy of a place where people can enjoy beautiful Italian food and wines.”

The new booth seating at COPPA, Brisbane.

But don’t expect the restaurant of old.

The place has been completely stripped back, with architect Adam Laming designing a gorgeous, contemporary space inspired by the Italian coast.

The old private dining room has been removed to make way for an extended bar, and four cosy, crescent-shaped booths have been added alongside two large sharing tables.

Meanwhile, the original dining chairs and parquetry flooring remains – albeit sanded back and finished in a honey shade – complementing the walls which have been painted with the palest shade of pink that throws different hues depending on the time of day or night.

A set table at the new COPPA restaurant in Eagle Street Pier. Picture: Steve Pohlner

“We’ve made it much more open and much more modern,” Mr Sanceau said.

As for the food, sadly for many Il Centro devotees the restaurant’s famous sandcrab lasagne has not made it on to the COPPA menu, instead the offering from chef Vincent Clist will include antipasti-style small plates, pastas and mains with a strong seafood focus using the best local catches.

The gem salad at COPPA, Eagle Street Pier.

Expect everything from Hervey Bay scallop crudo and fried calamari to their beloved kale, mushroom and walnut gnocchi and bistecca alla fiorentina – a special steak for two.

The restaurant has also commissioned its own line of charcuterie from Brisbane company Saison Salumi, while Mr Sanceau is promising to serve “Brisbane’s best meatballs” made with veal and Bangalow pork. “That’s a big call I know,” he said.

A wine list focused on Italian drops and Italian varietals made in Australia will mean there’s plenty to quaff, especially with up to 25 available by the glass.

There’ll also be plenty of big name labels for traditionalists, as well as low intervention, biodynamic, organic where possible.

City workers will also be encouraged to come in for just a drink at the bar thanks to a fun array of cocktails such as frozen prosecco slushies, their COPPA colada and a Frogroni (frozen negroni).