Train review: Thai’s second class delivers a comfortable night’s sleep

The Journey

Bangkok to Chiang Mai with a journey time of 12 hours and 35 minutes aboard the high-quality sleeper Train No.9, a Chinese-built train introduced in 2016 by Thai Railways.

The Class

Train No.9 operates each evening and tickets are in hot demand from Thai domestic travellers and overseas visitors. First class sells out a few weeks before departure, so I settle for a second-class (bottom bunk) ticket instead. First class is a private enclosed cabin with washbasin, TV screens and larger beds, compared to just a privacy curtain in second class. Both classes share toilets with other passengers, which are modern and clean.

The new Bang Sue Grand Station terminal.Credit: Alamy

Carbon Emissions

20 kilograms per rail passenger compared to 66.20 kilograms an air passenger.

Boarding

My train departs from the sleek new Krung Thep Aphiwat Central Terminal, also known as Bang Sue Grand Station. From January 2023, Bang Sue replaced Bangkok (Hua Lamphong) Railway Station as the city’s central station, with all long-distance train services departing or arriving here. Boarding begins about 30 minutes before departure. I arrive a few hours early and buy snacks from the small but diverse food court selling hamburgers, barbecue pork buns, satay skewers, bubble tea and stir-fries.

I settle for a second-class (bottom bunk) ticket.Credit: iStock

The Seat

I arrive at my seat, one of four divided by a central aisle in an “open-plan” air-conditioned carriage. I have a bedside light with an international power socket and a netted holder beside the window to stash smaller items such as my phone. At about 7.30pm, an attendant converts the seats into top and bottom bunk beds, with pillow, linen and thin blanket provided. A curtain gives privacy, but carriage lights are kept on throughout the night. It’s best to pack a sleeping mask and ear plugs if you’re a light sleeper.

Baggage

One medium-sized suitcase fits under my seat and there are overhead racks for storing smaller items.

Food + Drink

An attendant shows me a leaflet with dinner set options (no vegetarian or vegan choices) alongside photos and English captions, for about 190bht ($8). I opt for the chicken penang curry and jasmine rice, with sides of pineapple, two cold spring rolls and a “clear” soup with mystery meatballs. It’s better than expected, beating most airline food by a country mile. Unfortunately, meals also arrive with plenty of single-use and disposable plastic.

The Verdict

Thailand Railways Train No.9 sleeper saves you a night’s accommodation.Credit: iStock

Hurtling out of one city at sunset and arriving in a new one as it’s waking up is an underrated joy of travel. Train No.9 was cheaper than flying, efficient, eco-friendly and – most importantly – delivered a comfortable night’s sleep.

Our Rating Out of Five

★★★½

Justin Meneguzzi travelled on Train No.9 at his own expense. See railway.co.th; tourismthailand.org