This no-frills bush retreat just got a luxe upgrade

The hotel

Billabong Retreat, Maraylya, NSW

Billabong Retreat underwent a $1.5 million refurbishment. Pictured: Deluxe King cabin balcony.

Check-in

Billabong Retreat, an eco bush sanctuary 45 minutes north-west of the Sydney CBD, just got a flush $1.5 million upgrade – but there are a few telling signs it’s stayed true to its modest roots. You won’t find batik robes, Wi-Fi, or candy-striped towels rolled up on sun-loungers. What you will find are fully inclusive meals and drinks (vegetarian and non-alcoholic), optional daily workshops, yoga classes, guided meditations, and free use of the freshly revamped pool area – though, ahem, BYO pool towel. The Lotus Studio, a new open-air yoga pavilion right above the billabong, is one of a slew of brilliant enhancements to come out of the expansion, which has brought the number of rooms to 26 (up from 19), and has seen new Deluxe Cabin and Terrace Ensuite tiers added, as well as upgrades to the original rooms and amenities.

Yoga studio: retreat guests come here for yoga, workshops and meditation sessions.

The look

The retreat centre presiding above the escarpment is the beating heart of the property, but it’s the namesake billabong below around which everything orbits. Try misty morning walks by the bank, yoga on the outdoor pavilion or open-air baths on the billabong-facing balcony. It’s worth noting a glorious absence of guests lurched over smartphones or staging yoga photoshoots by the water; the retreat discourages the use of devices in public areas (though this isn’t policed – and most telcos only get a signal in the communal retreat centre, making this tricky to adhere to at times).

The room

The new stilted Deluxe King cabins.

We’re staying in one of just three newly refurbished Deluxe King cabins, which astonishingly features not one, but two enormous bath tubs – one perched spectacularly on the balcony, next to a suspended egg chair. A stash of bath salts and handmade soaps make a balcony soak more enticing. The cabin takes a stylishly austere palette: sandy tones and creamy whites. There’s a king and convertible sofa bed (though our fold-out is a bit wonky; we share the bed instead). It also has air-con and an old music player hooked to an iPod loaded with in-house meditations (note: it doesn’t pair with modern devices – BYO portable speakers?). There are multiple power points, including a single desk USB port, and a kettle with a selection of tea. Twin tubs aside, this is a comfortable but humble setup; no mini-bars, fluffy robes, slippers or in-room yoga mats.

Soothing neutral tones.

Food + drink

Billabong’s food is a surprise highlight. They’ve nabbed chef Adam Lord (ex Wilbur’s Place, The Roosevelt) to oversee the mostly plant-based menu, with produce sourced from biodynamic farm Warrah in nearby Dural. “People think it’s going to be all lentils and pumpkin – and there is some of that,” he tells me, laughing. “But we try to make it more interesting.” Each meal is a colourful smorgasbord of whole grains, roast veg and captivating raw salads, teamed with house-made dips and sauces. It might include fresh sourdough with Pepe Saya butter, spiced scrambled tofu, spinach and feta frittata, orange and fennel salad, crispy lemon and oregano roasted spuds, or baked cauliflower blossom with ricotta and red pepper chilli sauce. Breakfast is no less sumptuous; bowls of steaming porridge, chia pudding, yoghurt and raspberry compote.

Food for the soul: chef-prepared vegetarian delights.

Out + about

Retreats are themed (ours is “self-care”) but all encourage guests to unplug and make use of the retreat facilities. Opt into free group yoga sessions, or splurge in the wellness centre with massages, facials, Reiki, and infrared sauna sessions all on offer. Evenings typically end with a guided group meditation. There are also more unstructured ways to relax – borrow a book, take a bath, go for a swim or enjoy a quiet cuppa in one of many serene chill-out spaces on or above the billabong.

The verdict

In a deluxe cabin, where two-night retreats for two can soar to $2050 on weekends, the admittedly dreamy balcony tub doesn’t come cheap (note: there are cabin options to suit a range of budgets). Bathing and spa treatments aside, brace for a no-frills but wholly rewarding experience.

Yin yoga in the new open-air Lotus Studio.

The essentials

Billabong Retreat, 41 Mcclymonts Rd, Maraylya NSW. Nightly rates from $300 (shared bath) or $450 (with ensuite) a person, or from $875 a night for a two-person Deluxe King. All rooms include meals, daily workshops, yoga, and guided meditations. Retreat packages available. See billabongretreat.com.au

The score out of five

★★★½

Highlight

Sun-kissed yoga sessions on the new over-water pavilion.

Lowlight

The balcony bath has plenty of wow-factor, but its location above a walking path can feel a little exposed (swimsuits essential).

The writer was a guest of Billabong Retreat.