This is Bali’s biggest resort, but I felt like I was the only guest here

The hotel

Mulia Villas, Nusa Dua

Check-in

Sophisticated, neutral tones set the tone in the lobby.

A 25-minute drive from Denpasar airport, Nusa Dua is a gated compound of luxury resorts dotted along empty beaches in Bali’s southernmost peninsula. Spread across 30 hectares, the all-inclusive Mulia Resort accommodates more than 1500 guests making it Bali’s biggest hotel offering since opening in 2012. I’m staying in its exclusive Mulia Villas, tucked far away from the kids’ club and all-you-can-eat buffet on the south-western end of the resort, where you’re both looked after by your 24-hour butler, but also left alone to enjoy your private, ocean-view sanctuary with a decent-sized pool and pavilion.

The look

The Aqua Pool is available exclusively to guests at Mulia Villas.Credit: Julia Naughton

Towering coconut palms, bougainvillea, bamboo and frangipani feature in the immaculately kept gardens and the effect is immediately calming – suddenly, I have no desire to read the news or scroll Instagram.

It’s hard to believe the entire establishment was built in just 18 months. A neutral palette and white linens contrast dark wood and pops of green to give the resort’s common areas an air of international sophistication. Coming here is sheer indulgence – there is no need to lift a finger, or walk anywhere in fact – with golf buggies whizzing around the vast grounds to take you to your next destination. Despite the 85 per cent occupancy rate during my stay, it’s as if I’m the only guest, seldom encountering other holidaymakers when walking from my villa to morning yoga or one of the resort’s eight pools. Two of those pools – Oasis and Aqua – are exclusive to guests staying in Mulia Villas.

The room

A private pool wraps around one half of the bedroom.

It’s a pinch-me moment when I open the double doors to my private compound at dusk. Giant sandstone tiles set in perfectly manicured lawn lead me to either the pavilion overlooking the pool or the entrance to the villa.

Inside, a note from butlers Tedi and Agus invite me to enjoy the accompanying fresh fruit and macarons, and I oblige while taking in the high ceilings and roomy space.

A separate walk-in wardrobe and dressing room separates the bedroom from the bathroom; double vanity and a jacuzzi surrounded by glass windows that open to an outdoor shower.

As expected, there is a coffee machine, kettle and desk space. The barbecue facilities outside are a bonus for those nights when you’d rather stay in and make the most of the villa.

Food + drink

Staying in Mulia Villas affords you multiple dining options, the best being those offering a la carte service as opposed to the buffets which are open to all resort guests. The “Living Room” becomes my go-to for breakfast with options including poached eggs benedict with salmon on potato rosti or for something a little extra, scrambled eggs valous vente with caviar and steak filet mignon.

High tea (choose from sweet or savoury) is served complementary every afternoon at multiple locations and marks the beginning of Happy Hour. A crowd favourite for dinner is Chinese and Cantonese restaurant Table8 (also open for lunch and Sunday Dim Sum) offering options such as soups, stir-fry and shrimp dumplings available in the buffet or on the a la carte menu alongside free-flowing tea. Also not to be missed is Sunday brunch at expat favourite Soleil. Just be sure to skip breakfast to allow for indulgence in a seafood feast, fresh pasta and a dessert cart with offerings almost too pretty to eat.

Out + about

Peace and quiet on Nusa Dua’s uncrowded beaches.

Unlike Canggu’s bustling cafes that feel more like Bondi and Seminyak with its noisy traffic, Nusa Dua is quiet, with most guests opting to stay within their chosen hotel unless venturing out on a day trip. For this reason, it can feel as if you’re in a resort bubble. Burst it by checking out local eatery Art Cafe Bumbu Bali for an authentic nasi goreng and if you’re the intrepid type, consider adding a second destination to your trip that better showcases local culture.

The verdict

One of two exclusive pools for Mulia Villas guests.

This resort is all about relaxation and extravagance where the hardest decision you’ll make is which restaurant to dine at each night. Added bonus: it’s close to the airport.

Essentials

A one-bedroom Villa Garden View from IDR7,725,000 ($731) a night including breakfast. A one-bedroom Villa Ocean View from IDR11,400,000 ($1076). Jl Raya Nusa Dua Selatan, Kawasan Sawangan, Nusa Dua, Indonesia, 80362; see themulia.com/bali/mulia-villas

The score

★★★★½

Highlight

The expansive gym featuring every type of machine possible in a glistening-clean, air-conditioned setting.

Lowlight

The hotel’s famous pool.

The hotel’s famous pool – lined with super-sized statues of Balinese women harvesting rice – is by far the most popular swimming spot among guests. At times, it was difficult finding two daybeds together.

The writer stayed as a guest of Mulia Villas.