The scenic coastal spot that punches above its small-town weight

Morning light on Port Macquarie’s Shelly Beach.Credit: Destination NSW

Midway between the Gold Coast and Sydney, Port Macquarie is shrugging off its “God’s waiting room” label with a food scene that punches above its small-town weight. Surprisingly, the Mid North Coast town never actually became a port due to a notorious coastal bar that sank many a ship, but the name stuck.

Seafood to rival Sydney

Whalebone Wharf seafood restaurant on the Hastings River.Credit: Destination NSW

They say steer clear of restaurants with spectacular views, but Whalebone Wharf proves the exception to the rule. Perched on the Hastings River since 1971, the restaurant has risen from the devastating 2021 floods to present coastal chic dining in a renovated space. Some diners arrive by boat or even seaplane. Executive chef Mitchell Tait’s menu champions local seafood and produce (some of it grown across the road). Start with the Pacific oysters or the renowned seafood chowder, before moving on to local market fish, Queensland barramundi or the fruits de mer for two. Side dishes (almost) steal the show. See whalebonewharf.com.au

A family-run zoo

Tawny frogmouth is among Billabong Zoo’s more than 80 species of native and exotic mammals, reptiles and birds. Credit: Destination NSW

Like a real-life version of I Bought a Zoo, siblings Blake and Brooke Stone were raised at Billabong Zoo Koala and Wildlife Park, waking daily to a cacophony of animal calls. Today, sustainability and conservation guide their work at the 4.4-hectare wildlife park.

Meet 80 species of native and exotic mammals, reptiles and birds, many of which you can pat, hold or feed. You can also have close encounters with red pandas (Ratu and Tito), meerkats, endangered snow leopards and cheetahs (at extra cost). From the airy cafe, you can watch entertaining spider monkeys as you eat. See billabongzoo.com.au

Leaders in koala conservation

Volunteers put heart and effort into running Port’s Koala Hospital.Credit: Destination NSW

Australia’s only koala hospital is at Port Macquarie, which also has one of NSW’s largest koala populations. About 250 sick and injured marsupials are treated each year at the non-profit rehabilitation facility, established in 1973. Visitors can meet permanent residents including Bobby, CW and Hunter, and learn more about this vital operation, which aims to release as many koalas as possible back into the wild. In an exciting development, the volunteer-run organisation will start breeding joeys for release at a new purpose-built facility in the hope of restoring dwindling wild populations. See koalahospital.org.au

A B&B that swims against the tide

Tallowwood House, a B&B with a difference.

Tallowwood House, a luxe new retreat, has a new take on the traditional, full-service bed and breakfast experience. Tucked behind rainforest a stone’s throw from Port Macquarie’s Shelly Beach, the Japanese-inspired B&B provides a personalised stay with two themed suites, fine linen and a weekly, seasonal breakfast menu cooked by owner Mandy Rowe and delivered to your room at a time to suit you.

Its design follows a wabi sabi philosophy, and wood, stone and concrete feature. A pet-friendly suite has an oversized concrete bath and a private stone courtyard with an outdoor shower and daybed. A second suite overlooks lush rainforest from a private deck. See tallowwoodhouse.com.au

A beach where the town meets the sand

Surf or swim at Town Beach.Credit: Destination NSW

Curving between the Hastings River mouth and a jagged headland, Port Macquarie’s popular Town Beach has swimming at the sheltered southern end beneath Flagstaff Hill and waves to the north.

Order a coffee from Salty Crew Kiosk, where every man and dog seem to know each other. Join the nine-kilometre coastal walk to Tacking Point Lighthouse to explore the southward sweep of another seven beaches. See saltycrewkiosk.com.au; portmacquarieinfo.com.au

And forest meets foam

Scenic boardwalk through the Sea Acres National Park.Credit: Destination NSW

Sea Acres National Park protects one of the largest remaining coastal rainforests on Australia’s east coast. Explore the swath of dense coastal (or littoral) rainforest via a 1.3-kilometre elevated boardwalk that is pram and wheelchair friendly. Admire subtropical plants and towering trees (via self-guided or bookable tours), and listen to bird calls. Stop for coffee and cake at the popular Rainforest Cafe, which melds into the treetops. See nationalparks.nsw.gov.au

Savour the region

Twotriplefour by Bills is a proudly local, paddock-to-plate eatery with a focus on championing quality seasonal produce and crafted beverages. Sister venue to Bills Fish House, this modern Australian eatery has recently shifted from its Cassegrain Winery setting to the heart of town, bringing along its “savour the region” philosophy. Attentive and knowledgeable staff and generous sized dishes ensure its new digs are as busy as ever. Don’t miss the Milly Hill lamb or the apple tart. See twotriplefour.com

Epic sunset vistas

Sundowners at the Little Shack overlooking the Hastings River.

Mexican-inspired Little Shack bar and eatery morphs from breakfast to prime sundowner spot overlooking the Hastings River. Wend your way through the Town Green and take a table in its Tiki-style garden bar. Order a decadent lobster roll or ceviche tostadas, washed down with a chilli pineapple margarita. There’s arguably no better spot in Port to watch the sun set. See littleshack.com.au

Rydges Sails

Resort-style Rydges Sails in Settlement City.

This 4.5-star waterfront property has a Hamptons design, heated pools with private cabanas and direct access to the Hastings River, where you can paddle kayaks from the private jetty. Most of the 92 rooms have river views and all come with balconies or terraces with access to lush, manicured gardens.

The inhouse Boat House Restaurant and Bar does a roaring trade serving classic fish and chips, wagyu sirloin steaks and creative cocktails. It’s in the Settlement City precinct, a leisurely 20-minute stroll into town. Hello Sailor, in an old boat mechanic shed nearby, has rollicking rum-infused cocktails and street food. From $229 a night. See rydges.com; hellosailor2444.com.au

The writer visited Port Macquarie as a guest of Visit NSW. See visitnsw.com