The knock-out stay that will ruin all future safaris

THE PLACE

Zarafa Camp, Botswana

CHECK-IN

Black clouds are on our tail as our LandCruiser speeds towards Great Plains Conservation’s Zarafa Camp. It’s only 45 minutes from Selinda Reserve airstrip, but we pull up at our luxury camp’s tented pavilions just in time to beat the thundering rain, which causes the vervet monkeys on the deck to scatter in search of cover. I’m handed lemonade flavoured with rooibos tea to settle my excitement as staff begin to zip up the marquee lounge tent against the tempest. After the rain passes, I’m shown to my tented suite.

THE LOOK

So much more than a tent ... the lounge.

Zarafa Camp was the first hotel in Botswana to join the Relais and Chateaux collection, which recognises exceptional hotels and restaurants around the world, and the attention to detail shines through. Touches like sanded-back Zanzibar doors, Persian rugs and the metal cast of a giraffe’s skull evoke a sense of old-world romance. Much of the camp was built using recycled materials salvaged after a tsunami devastated parts of east Africa in late 2004. The camp’s main hub comprises a communal tented pavilion housing the dining room, library, bar, lounge, and a new wine cellar added in 2023, with wraparound decking featuring a firepit with views over Zibalianja Lagoon. There’s also an open-air gym, massage studio, and an on-site boutique offering locally made jewellery, clothing and art.

THE ROOM

All the creature comforts – plus the creatures.

Each of the camp’s four marquee-style guest suites measures 100 square metres and feels like a private condo. Pulling open the heavy antique front door reveals a welcome lounge with a fully stocked (and included) mini-bar and writing desk with a complimentary Canon DSLR camera ready for me to take on a game drive.

Bathtime with a view.

The room flows through to a double bedroom and open bathroom with separate toilet. With time to spare before my next game drive, I opt for a soak in the copper claw-foot bathtub and watch as fresh rains douse a herd of red lechwe grazing in front of my private outdoor plunge pool.

OUT AND ABOUT

Cameras for safari-spotting are provided.

Zibalianja Lagoon is a magnet for wildlife, including elephant, zebra and buffalo, but the water level is too low to explore using the camp’s pontoon. Instead, we hop into the LandCruiser, which is custom-built for photography with chargers, storage and camera rests, and set off on morning and afternoon game drives.

Other activities include guided nature walks, catch-and-release fishing, and night drives, but the staff are eager to facilitate any request. A stray suggestion to turn a rainy evening into a movie night is met with a projector screen and popcorn. When I jokingly suggest a whisky tasting, I return from a game drive to find a dozen bottles of top-shelf whiskies arrayed and ready to be sampled.

FOOD + DRINK

Dinner is served.

Stays include all meals as well as an afternoon high tea and sunset drinks. Days can be hot and humid so the decision to feature a light and mostly vegetarian menu is welcome, featuring the likes of spiced papaya salad, roast salmon and butternut pumpkin soup. The food is backed by a mostly South African collection of wines, and a selection of French champagnes, plus a self-service mini-bar that’s open around the clock.

Lunch on safari.

THE ESSENTIALS

Selinda Reserve, Botswana. PH: [phone]. Rooms from $2900 a person a night. Rate includes light plane transfers, food and drink, and laundry. Dirt paths and elevated buildings mean the camp is unable to accommodate wheelchairs. See greatplainsconservation.com

THE VERDICT

Thoughtful design and exceptional service results in a knock-out stay that will ruin all future safaris.

OUR RATING

★★★★★

HIGHLIGHT

The giddy thrill of being woken during the night by lions huffing beside my tent.

LOWLIGHT

Realising my outdoor shower is within partial view of the (thankfully empty) open-air gym.

The writer travelled as a guest of Bench Africa.