On holiday in Italy, I caught a pickpocket red-handed

It happened the other week on a narrow, crowded street near the Rialto Bridge in Venice, as I was en route to catch a water bus to the airport. My backpack was slung on my shoulders, my hands full, when I felt a nudge. Turning halfway, I saw a well-dressed young woman unnaturally close behind me. A coat draped over her arm, she smiled and said, “I’m sorry, I bumped you,” in perfect English.

I checked my bag and realised the zip was already halfway down – I’d caught her just in time. Nothing had been taken, but I still felt annoyed, violated, and yes, rather stupid, that she’d even had the chance to try.

As one of the world’s most popular tourist destinations, Venice is a hotbed for pickpockets.Credit: iStock

She seemed to have two accomplices, who melted into the crowd the moment I noticed them. I then channelled my inner Monica Poli, the Venetian internet sensation of 2023, famous for her viral “attenzione pickpocket!” videos.

Raising my voice, I followed the would-be thief – probably a very stupid thing to do, in hindsight – warning everyone around loudly about her actions. A few steps later, she stopped, turned around, told me in no uncertain terms to Foxtrot Oscar and swiped at me with her jacket before ducking into a mini market. Behind the glass, she glared, unrepentant.

Italy, for all its beauty, has a pickpocketing problem that authorities, locals and tourists alike are struggling to manage.

According to a survey by travel insurance comparison site Quotezone released earlier this year, Italy is Europe’s pickpocketing capital, ranking above France and Spain in their assessment. The study analysed visitor reviews of each country’s top tourist attractions, finding 478 mentions of pickpocketing per million British visitors to Italy’s top sites – more than any other European country.

Rome, Milan and Venice are particularly problematic. In Rome, the Italian Federation of Public and Tourism Operators recently reported up to 100 daily incidents of theft, muggings and pickpocketing in the city centre.

“Our historic centre’s narrow alleys, canals and absence of traditional vehicles create logistical difficulties for law enforcement,” acknowledges Elisabetta Pesce, a security councillor for the City of Venice.

Alert, not paranoid

Authorities there are stepping up to the challenge, she counters, with increased police patrols, plain-clothes officers and awareness campaigns. Vaporetto boarding areas feature extra surveillance and signage warning visitors about the risks.

Rome is bracing for its Jubilee Year – a period of forgiveness and spiritual renewal in the Catholic Church – in 2025, which is expected to draw 35 million pilgrims to the capital and Vatican City, with peaks at Easter and during summer school holidays.

“The metro is always risky,” warns Rome-based Agnes Crawford, a tour guide with more than 20 years’ experience in Italy, “but to be honest, I feel that you’re more likely to have your phone snatched in London than get pickpocketed here. It’s like any big city – stay alert, but don’t be paranoid.”

Pickpockets often work in teams, using distraction as their main weapon: a nudge in a crowd, a spilled drink or even the “helpful” stranger offering directions are classic techniques. Lloyd Figgins, a former police officer, CEO of the TRIP Group and author of The Travel Survival Guide, advises travellers to make themselves “hard targets”.

“Keep valuables out of sight and close to your body. Bags should be zipped and worn across the chest, not on your back or shoulder,” he says. Figgins also highlights the importance of “situational awareness”, urging tourists to remain alert, particularly in crowded areas.

“Don’t fall for the classic trap of checking your valuables when you see a sign warning about pickpockets,” he adds. “It signals exactly where to target, and sometimes those signs have been put up by criminal gangs anyway.”

Avoid the crowds

In practical terms, for the Colosseum in Rome – a pickpocketing hotspot, says Quotezone – Crawford suggests bypassing the hoardings of the “interminable” works opposite the metro station and instead approaching by Via Labicana or the Arch of Constantine, where space is less congested.

Similarly, in Venice, she recommends venturing down quieter side streets, away from tourist throngs. “Mapping apps on phones seem to funnel everyone along the same busy areas,” she says. “You’ll not only avoid the crowds but might discover some charming little shops and cafes along the way.”

Milan, too, sees its fair share of incidents. The bustling Duomo area, with its mix of selfie-snapping tourists and designer-clad locals, is prime territory for pickpockets.

Despite my close encounter, Italy’s spot as my favourite European country remains unaltered. Few places rival the joy of lounging poolside at Capri’s Villa Brunella, sipping a spritz on Milan’s Terrazza Aperol, skiing down the Dolomites towards a restorative Bombardino or an early-morning hike in the Aeolian Islands.

Next time I’m in La Serenissima, though, I’ll trade in my backpack for a crossbody bag. Italy’s beauty and elegance will always be worth the occasional battle of wits with its less-savoury characters.

The Telegraph, London